Mexico’s controversial new ‘superhighway’

The 104km Barranca Larga-Ventanilla highway radically reduces travel time to Oaxaca’s beautiful and bohemian coast, but are local communities prepared for it?

The Oaxaca Coast has long been a dream destination of mine ever since a friend came home from a year in a yoga centre with tales of full Moon circles and plant medicine ceremonies held right on the beach.Last December, after living in Oaxaca City, the capital of the eponymous state, for five months, I finally made it this beautiful Pacific coastline to watch waves pummel Playa Zipolite, Mexico’s only official nude beach; admire the sun set on a sea cape that’s said to be home to buried Aztec treasure; and try neo-shamanic healing in the bohemian town of Mazunte.But getting there was no easy feat.

Oaxaca’s peaceful, fragile and largely undeveloped coast is sheltered by the Sierra Madre del Sur Mountains and was at that time reached by a famously vomit-inducing mountain road with endless hairpin turns from Oaxaca City. Taking seven to eight hours by car – or 10-12 hours by bus – the journey was hard to fit into my work schedule. My only other option was an expensive flight to coastal city Puerto Escondido. I went with a night bus, whose nonstop twists and turns left me feeling like I was riding an out-of-control rollercoaster.Now, just a few months later, a quick weekend trip to the beach is entirely possible. A new 104km “superhighway” connecting Oaxaca City – named the best city in the world by Travel & Leisure in 2023 – to Puerto Escondido, the gateway to almost 600km of glorious coastline, finally opened in February 2024, 15 long years after its inception. It has radically reduced travel time to just 2.5 hours. “The new highway is a game-changer for people who want an easy commute from the city to the beach,” said Colleen Palmer, an American I met who was travelling with her husband. “People were buzzing about the highway when we left Oaxaca City and even more so when we arrived in Puerto Escondido.”Ida Pap/AlamyLGBTQ-friendly Zipolite is where you’ll find lively beach bars (Credit: Ida Pap/Alamy)

I spent a little under two weeks on the so-called Oaxacan Riviera, though I could have easily spent two months. My visit was limited to a small string of villages: the sleepy, hippie town of Mazunte; the fishing village St Agustinillo; and the LGBTQ-friendly Zipolite. Decidedly unplugged, they’re the type of places where ATMs are out of cash for a week and stable Wi-Fi is pretty much non-existent. Bouncing between the crystal healings of Mazunte and the lively beach bars of Zipolite hit the sweet spot.

But there is so much more to the coast. I could have headed south from Zipolite to hit up the nine bays, 36 beaches, coral reefs and lowland jungle of Huatulco National Park, or ventured inland into the mountains to cool off in the magical Copalitilla waterfalls.Or I could have explored surf city Puerto Escondido, whose 20ft waves have earned it the title “Mexican Pipeline”. Once here, it’s a matter of taking a bus, taxi, colectivo (shuttle), boat, tour or private transportation for an hour or two to get to other destinations. For example, a few hours north of Puerto are the remote, biodiverse lagoons of Chacahua National Park, one of the least-developed destinations in the area. Fifteen minutes west from Puerto is Laguna de Manialtepec, which brims with rare birds, crocodiles and bioluminescent plankton.        

Besides making it much easier for tourists to get here, the local government says that the road will increase trade between inland areas and the coast and make it easier for people in remote communities to access services like healthcare and education.

The more than 13bn pesos (around £609m) into the project reflects the government’s growing investment in trade and travel infrastructure in Oaxaca. Other projects include the upcoming expansion of Puerto Escondido airport, which will allow for direct international flights to the coast, and the ambitious Interoceanic Corridor, which aims to rival the Panama Canal.Arkadij Schell/Getty ImagesSome residents are concerned that the local infrastructure won’t be able to handle an influx of tourists (Credit: Arkadij Schell/Getty Images)

But as is typically the case when travel becomes more accessible, the highway is a double-edged sword.

Take the highway

The 104km Barranca Larga-Ventanilla highway is an impressive feat of engineering and offers a smooth, quick ride to the coast. It has two traffic lanes and 15 on-and-off-ramps for surrounding communities.

While some construction is still going on, the road is now in use. It’s free for everyone to use until September 2024, when a toll will go into effect for international and domestic tourists not from the state of Oaxaca.

Travellers can rent a car in Oaxaca City or take a bus or minivan. They can also support Coatlanes indigenous community affected by the highway by booking one of the vans offered by Ruta Coatlanes Costa.

On the one hand, a tourism boom could help Oaxaca, one of the poorest states in Mexico, “rise from the ashes, giving people better jobs and a better life, with more opportunities,” said Nef Noyola, who was born on the Oaxaca Coast and now lives in Oaxaca City. Others I spoke to believe that coastal communities will benefit from access to services in Oaxaca City and overall improved connectivity between regions. But gentrification across Oaxaca has people on edge, and as coastal communities grow in popularity with expats and long-term visitors, rising costs are driving residents away. Pollution threatens the pristine landscape, and even the surf itself is changing due to development.A lack of government investment in infrastructure such as sewage treatment facilities means communities and the fragile environments they live in aren’t prepared for hordes of tourists. Some Oaxaqueños feel abandoned by the government’s lack of investment in service infrastructure to match that which was poured into the highway.”Everyone is talking about this,” said Nayola. “In many countries, governments will make sure everything is ready to receive more people before they build a road somewhere. In Mexico, they build stuff first and then they deal with what they were supposed to do before.”Meanwhile, the road has fuelled tensions between a local Indigenous group and the government. Members of the Coatlanes community say they ceded their land and cooperated with the government in the building of the highway for 20 years, with a promise that they’d have exclusive rights to operate transport. That promise wasn’t upheld, inciting the community to block traffic within 24 hours of the road’s inauguration.Arkadij Schell/Getty ImagesTravellers heading to the region should buy from small, locally owned businesses (Credit: Arkadij Schell/Getty Images)

“The quality of the life here is different if you are a white person or if you are Indigenous,” said Isabella Matt, an Afro-Indigenous artist, activist and Puerto Escondido native. “In Puerto Escondido, we have a clear view of this. We have two different Mexicos: The real Mexico, and one the tourists know.”

For those travelling to the region, being mindful and aware of the issues people face is essential, as is spending money in conscious ways, like opting out of resource-heavy accommodations (think beachfront resorts and high-rise hotels) in favour of ecologically responsible ones. Choosing simpler, more affordable accommodations may also help stop inflation.

“Just because you can pay for something more expensive doesn’t mean you should,” said Caleb Ramos Guzmán, who was born in and still lives in Zipolite. “Maybe you are here for a couple of weeks, but we stay here having to live under those prices with limited options.”

Travellers should also try to travel sustainably by buying from small, locally owned businesses; minimising waste; and avoiding plastics. Being very mindful of water use is especially important in drought-stricken Oaxaca.

As the highway opens up the coast like never before, it’s even more clear how precious and vulnerable this ecologically and culturally rich region is. While travellers like myself might rejoice at the prospect of a fast, convenient highway, it’s essential to respect the wellbeing of the land and the people who live there by travelling lightly and consciously.

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Why so close? The concept of personal space is different in Mexico

What’s the best way to greet a stranger? How do I say hello to a friend? How much personal space is enough? Find answers to all these questions and more inside.(Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)

It’s been 21 years, but a part of me still feels a little flustered giving and getting pecks on the cheek. 

It’s not that I agonize over it. It’s just that this perfectly normal way in Mexico of meeting and greeting non-family members and then bidding them adieu will never feel to me, on a cellular level, 100% non-sexual.

To this gal from a country where Puritans were the cultural founders of the current regime, it feels ever-so-slightly mischievous.

If you’ve spent any amount of time in Mexico, you’ve probably noticed it: this population’s sense of personal space is a bit different than ours, “ours” meaning those of us from the countries that currently send the most visitors and immigrants Mexico’s way.

In more formal situations or to greet people you have just met, a good handshake is sufficient. (Andres Manuel López Obrador/X)

So in the spirit of cultural knowledge-sharing, let’s dive right into the spaces between what’s considered familiar and normal in Mexico.

First, a general statement: Mexico is a much more “touchy-feely” country than its north-er North American counterparts, the United States and Canada. While there will always be variety among individuals within a culture, we know for our own on an instinctual level what’s normal and what’s not. For unfamiliar cultures, there’s some learning to be done!

Normal: Standing, walking, and talking very close to you. The short explanation: this is a matter of the physical space available and how many people live and reside within a certain area.

You’ve probably noticed that this is not a country of wide, open spaces… or at least people don’t tend to live in its wide, open spaces, anyway. Lots of things seem smaller, too, because they are: the aisles in the grocery store, the parking spaces, the cars, the bathrooms, the tables and chairs, the streets, the sidewalks, the buses, the metro (oh God, the metro).

When this is the case, you just get used to being a little cozier all around, as eventually people simply stop noticing when they’re closer than they need to be (to the point, sometimes, that you can easily smell people’s breath when they talk). Ick, and you’re allowed to back up or turn to the side if they don’t catch the hint and mindlessly follow you; “This is my good ear,” I might say to be polite. The smaller spaces also mean that most people are oblivious to the fact that you think they have any polite responsibility at all to move over to let you rush past them on the sidewalk. Move where?

Not normal: Standing or sitting right next to you when it’s not necessary to do so. If you’re packed into a metro, chances are you’re going to be standing pretty darn close to others. If you’re on a nearly-empty bus and someone plops down in the seat right next to you, though, you might want to get up and move toward the driver. 

In Mexico, it is common to greet acquaintances and friends with a kiss on the cheek in casual situations. 

Especially if you’re a woman, you’ll want to be cautious with distance. If your spidey senses are telling you that some dude is standing way closer behind you in line than he needs to, a full-bodied turn to the side (pro tip: get your butt to a point where it’s not facing him) and a quick “What do you want?” look is totally called for.

Normal: Quick pecks on the cheek to meet, greet, and bid farewell to friends and acquaintances, mostly in casual social situations. Ah, the kiss. If you’re from a place where kisses are mostly reserved for romantic partners and one’s own young children, kissing people who don’t fall into those categories might always feel just a little bit devious to you. It still does to me, and I’ve been here for over two decades. But oh, how I love having a set physical protocol and the bookends that they naturally put on either end of social interactions!

So how’s it done, exactly? First, it’s most typical to go in for it by moving your head slightly to the left. You’ll likely touch cheeks with the other person, but the kiss will mostly be in the air next to them and will not necessarily land on their skin. If you’re just meeting the other person, this might be accompanied by a simultaneous handshake that begins a second or so before, and if you already know them, you might lightly grab their left shoulder as well before pulling apart. If you’re good friends, a full-on hug could happen, too – oh, boy! Women and women kiss, women and men kiss, and men and men usually shake hands and maybe do the shoulder squeeze thing or a hug.

If you really don’t want to kiss-greet someone, just offer your hand for a shake, and use it to keep the distance between your bodies, which should get the message across.

Not Normal: Kisses from random strangers or in professional settings, and slobbery kisses planted firmly on your cheek (or on your mouth – yikes!). Remember, kisses are not required or expected in all social situations: you don’t kiss the clerk at the grocery store or the immigration officer or the person who’s interviewing you for a job. 

Hugs are reserved for those closest to you, such as family and friends. (Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)

When I taught high school, I did not greet or say goodbye to my students with kisses – not even the ones I was on a friendly basis with (plus, we’d have never had time for the actual class!). Mexicans tend to be unshy about respecting social hierarchies, and it would be rare to lean in for a kiss toward someone in a position of either authority or subordination in relation to you, or you to them. 

When in doubt, a handshake is always polite!

Normal: Hugs from good friends and family members; a light touch on the shoulder or arm from a stranger who needs your attention. It’s interesting to note that in a culture generally more comfortable with physical closeness and touching, hugs seem to be considered more intimate here than those air kisses next to the cheek. But if you think about it, it makes quite a bit of sense: a short moment of facial closeness is a lot less contact than pressing your entire bodies against each other for a few seconds! That’s why hugs are usually reserved for really good friends, family, and romantic partners.

Not normal: Hugs from strangers, or even acquaintances that you’re not close to; a stranger grabbing you or touching you anywhere below your shoulder. If you don’t want to press your body up against someone else’s, by all means, don’t – you’re not obliged! And if a stranger grabs you around your waist, whip around and give a well-deserved “back off” dirty look. 

So there you have it! This is an article and not a book, of course, and is therefore not an exhaustive list. But I hope it’s given you at least a somewhat broad idea of what to expect in your personal interactions in Mexico. Go forward and kiss the air next to people’s faces!

Or maybe just a handshake.

 

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US-Mexico border: 100 billion gallons of toxic sewage creating a ‘public health crisis’

Researchers found harmful bacteria, viruses and more in water samples.

The U.S.-Mexico border region faces a public health crisis as billions of gallons of contaminated sewage flow from Mexico into San Diego, California, according to a newly released report.

“South San Diego County is in a total state of emergency related to transboundary pollution, and this is a public health ticking time bomb,” Imperial Beach Mayor Paloma Aguirre told ABC News. “We are living in conditions that nobody in this great nation should be living in.”

The Tijuana River – which has been classified as an impaired water body, according to the U.S. Clean Water Act — flows north for 120 miles from Mexico to California before reaching the Pacific Ocean on the U.S. side of the border in the Imperial Beach, San Ysidro and Coronado coastal areas.

Over the last five years, 100 billion gallons of untreated sewage, industrial waste and urban runoff have been dumped into the Tijuana River, according to the International Boundary and Water Commission.

Tuesday marks the 805th day Imperial Beach has been closed due to the ongoing sewage issue, according to Aguirre, but the health risks are affecting residents far from the shore.

San Diego State University’s (SDSU) School of Public Health deemed the cross-border contamination a “public health crisis” and warned that “current regulation and monitoring measures are inadequate,” according to the new report, released on Feb. 13.

Untreated sewage pollutants originating in Mexico and not properly treated at the International Wastewater Treatment Plant include human and livestock diseases, pathogens carrying antibiotic-resistant genes, and industrial chemicals not permitted to be discharged in California, according to the report.

Studying soil samples from South San Diego, researchers found levels of the poisonous elements arsenic and cadmium that exceeded Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) thresholds for safety.

Water samples taken from the Tijuana River and Estuary, located on the U.S.-Mexico border, showed a range of dangerous viruses and bacteria, including HIV, hepatitis B and C, Salmonella, Vibrio, Streptococcus, Listeria, and Mycobacterium tuberculosis, according to the report.

The report also cites levels of antibiotic-resistant strains of E. coli and Legionella bacteria found in the contaminated water, “which are of considerable public health concern.”

Exposure to the contaminants, viruses and bacteria can impact the health of people who live and work nearby, which include children, seniors, lifeguards, military personnel, border patrol officers and at-risk populations, according to the study.

“Urgent interventions are needed to help reduce and address both the immediate and long-term potential health repercussions to those living near this hazardous environment,” Paula Stigler Granados, associate professor in SDSU’s School of Public Health and the paper’s lead author, told ABC News in a statement.

“The longer we take to stop the contamination, the greater the risk of exposures,” Granados noted. “Investment in our infrastructure to stop the pollution is critical.”

Toxic chemicals and bacteria – which were once believed to be isolated in the sewage alone – can be dispersed in water and air, especially during weather events, the report reveals.

For example, the California-Mexico border region has been hit recently with heavy rain and flooding caused by back-to-back atmospheric river storms. The resulting greater than usual influx of water can overwhelm California’s and Tijuana’s sewage treatment plants, researchers say.

Doctors Kimberly and Matt Dickson, a married couple who run South Bay Urgent Care in Imperial Beach, told ABC News that amid the February storms they have seen a 200 to 300 percent increase in patients with gastrointestinal illness, with symptoms including vomiting and diarrhea.

“These were people that were in the streets, going to school, but not swimming in the ocean. So, where was the transfer of bacteria and viruses going?” Matt Dickson asked. “How was it getting to these people if they weren’t swimming in the ocean?”

The couple says they began to realize that the heavy rains were causing the sewage to spill into the city’s streets, spreading illnesses across the community.

“If you’re driving down the street that’s flooded with sewage water, then you’re tracking bacteria back to your home or to the store. Or if kids are walking to school through a flooded street that’s got sewage water in it, then they go to class and they touch their shoes, and then they eat their lunch. People are getting sick,” Matt Dickson said.

“You don’t have to have a medical degree and to understand if there’s sewage on the street, people are going to get sick,” he noted.

The repeating cycle of rainstorms and illnesses in the community is “flabbergasting” to Kimberly Dickson, who says the cycle can be broken with better infrastructure to help reduce or eliminate the sewage overflow.

When it comes to the long-term health effects of the sewage problem, Kimberly worries, “It’s just the tip of the iceberg. We’re missing a lot of it. We don’t know the long-term consequences.”

In 2020, Congress approved a $300 million fund to expand the International Wastewater Treatment Plant San Ysidro. However, after the devastating infrastructure effects of Hurricane Hilary in August 2023, and the ongoing storms in the area, half of those funds were allocated to deferred maintenance before any type of expansion could happen, according memos obtained by The San Diego Union-Tribune.

Mayor Aguirre and other state politicians, including Gov. Gavin Newsom, have asked Congress for an additional $310 million in federal funds to address the issue, but it has yet to be approved.

“It’s challenging to maintain the attention and focus that this emergency needs when we’re located 3,000 miles away,” Aguirre said of requesting federal intervention from Washington, D.C.

“We also need additional intervention from our state administration. Our governor has advocated for that supplemental funding request, but he has fallen short of declaring a state of emergency,” Aguirre added.

In Dec. 2023, the International Boundary and Water Commission announced the Rehabilitation and Expansion Progressive Design-Build project for the International Wastewater Treatment Plant. The project includes essential rehabilitation of existing infrastructure and expansion of the plant, according to the press release.

“We have participated in many public meetings in the affected areas and want to assure residents our priority is improving the health and welfare of communities on both sides of the border,” Frank Fisher, Public Affairs Chief for the International Boundary and Water Commission, told ABC News in a statement.

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Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas: A Gateway to Mexico

“Nuevo Laredo is all about trade – both legal and illegal. It is the gateway to the major trade artery between the US and Mexico. Money. Rail. Trucks. Border Crossings. Illegal activity is plentiful too. Said to be the home of the most powerful and ruthless drug cartel – the Zetas – Nuevo Laredo is consistently on everyone’s ‘BE CAREFUL’ lists. For the average tourist, Nuevo Laredo is typical of most border towns with colonial buildings, seedy areas, and friendly marketplaces.”
— Dorothy Bell

Nuevo Laredo is a bustling border town located on the northern edge of the State of Tamaulipas, directly across the Rio Grande (Rio Bravo) from Laredo, Texas. The town plays a vital role in international trade, serving as a gateway for commerce between Mexico and the United States. Despite its reputation for being both a trade hub and a hotspot for criminal activity, Nuevo Laredo retains a unique blend of history, culture, and economic significance.

Why Visit Nuevo Laredo?

Nuevo Laredo offers a glimpse into the dynamic interplay of modern trade and traditional Mexican culture. While it’s not a conventional tourist destination, visitors can find colonial architecture, vibrant markets, and friendly locals. Its location on one of the busiest trade corridors in North America adds to its intrigue, making it a fascinating place to explore for those interested in borderland culture and commerce.

History Behind the Name

Nuevo Laredo means “new Laredo” in Spanish. Its name reflects the town’s origins after Texas separated from Mexico in 1836. Seventeen Mexican families crossed the Rio Grande to remain Mexican nationals, establishing Nuevo Laredo. The name “Laredo” could derive from the indigenous word Glaretum, meaning “sandy, rocky place,” or a Basque word meaning “beautiful pastures.”

Getting There

1. By Air
   Nuevo Laredo is served by the Quetzalcóatl International Airport (NLD), which offers domestic flights to major Mexican cities. Travelers arriving from the U.S. typically fly into Laredo International Airport (LRD) in Texas and cross the border by road or on foot.
2. By Road
   • From the U.S.: Nuevo Laredo is easily accessible by crossing the Rio Grande via one of the three international bridges connecting Laredo, Texas, and Nuevo Laredo. These include the Gateway to the Americas Bridge, the Juárez-Lincoln Bridge, and the World Trade Bridge for commercial traffic.
   • From Mexico: Highway 85D connects Nuevo Laredo to Monterrey, offering a safe and efficient toll route.
3. By Bus
   Long-distance bus services connect Nuevo Laredo with other major cities in Mexico, such as Monterrey, Saltillo, and Mexico City. Most buses arrive at the Nuevo Laredo Central Bus Terminal.

Driving to Nuevo Laredo

If you’re driving to Nuevo Laredo, consider these tips:

• Border Crossing: Ensure your paperwork is in order, including a valid passport, vehicle permit (if applicable), and proof of insurance.
• Safety: Avoid driving at night, particularly in rural areas or near the border, due to safety concerns.
• Road Conditions: Highways leading to Nuevo Laredo are generally in good condition, but toll roads are recommended for a safer and faster journey.

Travel Precautions

While Nuevo Laredo is a culturally rich destination, safety should remain a priority:

1. Stay Informed: Check the latest travel advisories for Tamaulipas and Nuevo Laredo. The area is known for cartel-related violence, so vigilance is crucial.
2. Avoid Risky Areas: Stick to well-populated and tourist-friendly zones. Avoid exploring isolated neighborhoods or wandering after dark.
3. Border Safety: If crossing the border, do so during daylight hours and at official crossings. Be prepared for long wait times during peak periods.
4. Police Encounters: If stopped by authorities while driving, remain polite and comply with requests. Ensure you have all required vehicle documents.

What to Do in Nuevo Laredo

1. Visit the Markets
   The Mercado Maclovio Herrera is a vibrant marketplace offering handmade crafts, traditional Mexican clothing, and local delicacies. It’s a great spot to pick up souvenirs and enjoy authentic street food.
2. Explore Colonial Architecture
   Nuevo Laredo has several historic buildings and plazas, including the Palacio Federal, a striking example of neoclassical architecture, and the Plaza Hidalgo, a central gathering place with a lively atmosphere.
3. Bridge of Culture
   Walk across the Gateway to the Americas Bridge for a unique border experience, blending Mexican and American influences.
4. Taste Local Cuisine
   Enjoy northern Mexican dishes like cabrito (roast goat), tacos de carne asada, and pan dulce (sweet bread) from local bakeries. Nuevo Laredo’s food scene is a highlight for visitors.
5. Tequila & Mezcal Tasting
   Several restaurants and bars offer tastings of Mexico’s iconic spirits, providing an authentic cultural experience.

Weather

Nuevo Laredo experiences a semi-arid climate, with quick changes in weather. Summers are hot and dry, while winters are mild. The area can occasionally experience sudden storms or droughts, so it’s best to check the forecast before your trip.

Final Tips

• Currency: The Mexican peso is the local currency. Exchange rates at border towns can vary, so consider exchanging money beforehand.
• Language: Spanish is widely spoken, but English is common near the border.
• Transportation: Taxis and rideshares are the easiest way to get around the city, though most areas are walkable.

Nuevo Laredo is a city of contrasts—a hub of commerce and culture with a gritty edge. While it’s not a traditional tourist destination, it offers a unique perspective on life at the crossroads of two nations. For those willing to explore responsibly, Nuevo Laredo is a window into the complexities and vibrancy of the U.S.-Mexico border region.

Also see Colombia Border Crossing

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Tapachula, Chiapas

“Tapachula is the most southerly city in Mexico. It is an economically blessed city with much of its wealth derived from coffee plantations and processing. For the traveler, Tapachula is somewhat plain and merely the jumping point for a trek to Central America, however with a little time and curiosity, this no-frill city can delight with small pleasures.“

Written by Dorothy Bell

Photography by Bill Bell
Name: The Official Tapachula de Córdova y Ordóñezin to honor a Brother Matías de Córdova y Ordóñez. Tapachula means “Between the Waters” in the Nahuatl language.

Location: Tapachula is the southern most city in Mexico. It is on the Pacific Ocean in the state of Chiapas along the Guatamalen border.

Weather: Hot and Humid throughout the year. The annual rainfall of about 3,900mm makes it one of the world’s most rainy cities.
Current forecasts and weather alerts — Mexico’s national weather service

January Average Highs 34.4C (93.9F) Lows 17.9C (64.2F)

July Average Highs 33.1C (91.6F) Lows 20.2C (68.4F)

Population: 190,000

Elevation: 170 meters above Sea Level

Founded: The Aztecs founded Tapachula in 1486 to collect tribute (taxes)

Medical: At present there is one government hospital, IMSS hospitals private hospitals and one Mexican Red Cross Hospital. Hospital services have concentrated on labor and delivery, infectious diseases, malnutrition and accidents.

Money: Abundant ATMs and Banks

History:

The area was continually invaded and settled by a number of different cultures. Likely the Central American Indian groups that  settles in the area were what is now collectively called the Mames. They were conquered by the Olmecs, who were then attacked by the Toltecs. Tapachula was eventually in 1486 established by the Aztecs as a collection point for the taxes and tributes to be paid to Mexico City.

After the Spanish Conquest Tapachula became the center of the region for the development of cacao. In 1774 the city became the capital for the region.

Before the War of Independence, Tapachula protested long and hard about taxation imposed by the Spanish and during the conflict was declared both a town and a parish. Flexing its muscle and prominence as the regional capital, Tapachula declared itself independent from Spain, Guatamala and Mexico.(1821-24). In 1888 the region was declared Mexican.

In the early 1900’s many Chinese came to work the coffee plantations. The descendants of these original workers have spread throughout the state and are evident in the number of restaurants and supply stores particularly in Tapachula.

Today:

Tapachula is a border city and has grown rich and prosperous with international trade and the flow of goods between the two countries. It is also the principal city, the center for an agriculturally rich region area that produces internationally acclaimed coffee. It has the highest per capital income in the state of Chiapas.

Tapachula is a modern city and has developed suburban malls with big box retailers. The central city core needs revitalization and a plan to develop as a vital historical and cultural center of the city. The Parque Miguel Hidalgo is a plaza lined with trees and a central octagon kiosk. To one side is the old and new municipal palace, Soconusco Archeological Museum and theatre.

Things to Do

Visit the Soconusco Archeological Museum in part of the old city hall. Hours: Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 to 17:00 hrs. Phone: (961) 67 64 173

Displays important pieces from local archeological sites of the area. See a gold scull with turquoise.

The Casa De Cultura is and art deco styled building erected in 1929. The façade however, is Oaxacan with Aztec warriors and serpents.

San Agustíne The San Augustíne parish church built in the 18th century honors San Augustine the patron saint of the city. It was once the central cathedral of the city.

Festivals

(Tapachula celebrates the many Mexican festivals featured in our calendar. The ones listed below are particular to Tapachula)

February – Chinese New Year. Lion and Dragon dances are performed

February 28 to March 6 – International Fair of Tapachula Cultural, Commercial and Agricultural Exhibitions including livestock, crafts, art, rides, rodeos, dances, bullfights and cock fighting.

November (Variable Dates)

Festival of Culture and Arts

Art in various forms plus an, academic  component including a forum where intellectuals give lectures and presentations on social, cultural, political and economic topics

Getting there:

Drive from.

Airport – Tapachula International Airport (TAP) Mexico’s southernmost airport. National and International air traffic

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