SOL TRAVEL SECTION

Discovering Álamos, Sonora: A Colonial Gem

By Bill and Dorothy Bell

Alamos is a silver colonial city located in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Occidental in Sonora, making it a worthwhile visit for tourists exploring Mexico’s rich history and culture. This enchanting city, often described as a hidden treasure, offers a glimpse into the past with its well-preserved architecture and vibrant traditions.

A Convenient Stopover

Situated off Highway 15, Alamos is an ideal stop-over for travelers journeying along the coastal highway from Tucson towards Los Mochis and points further south. It provides a refreshing alternative to beach destinations, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in a classic colonial setting.

A Stroll Through History

Walk the narrow cobblestone streets, explore the grand cathedral, and visit the bustling marketplace. The city’s historical charm is evident in every corner, with flowering balconies and hidden inner courtyards that captivate photographers and history enthusiasts alike.

The Rise and Fall of a Mining Hub

Alamos was founded as a significant mining center after substantial silver deposits were discovered in 1683. The city flourished, becoming the wealthiest in the area and a hub for social, financial, and cultural activities. During the 17th century, Alamos experienced a construction boom, with architects designing and building grand mansions and haciendas as the population swelled to over 30,000.

However, the prosperity was short-lived. The mint closed in 1896 following Mexico’s independence from Spain, leading to a population decline as many residents moved elsewhere. The Mexican Revolution further contributed to the city’s downfall when it was attacked and conquered in the late 1920s, turning Alamos into a ghost town.

Revival Through Restoration

In the late 1940s, American William Alcorn purchased a dilapidated mansion, restored it, and opened a hotel. This act of preservation sparked further investment and restoration in the area, revitalizing Alamos as a tourist destination. Today, visitors can tour the grand mansions and haciendas, enjoy local cuisine at nearby cafes and restaurants, and explore the local museum off the zocalo.

A Day in Alamos

When we arrived in Alamos, the town was serene, with locals relaxing in the shade of the zocalo. The gazebo in the square, with its intricate ironwork and colorful ceiling, stands as a testament to the city’s rich architectural heritage. The historic church, bathed in sunlight, and the charming doorways of old buildings add to the city’s allure.

Children playfully roam the streets, adding a touch of liveliness to the otherwise tranquil atmosphere. Groups of elderly men, donning their signature white hats, gather to chat and enjoy the day. The streets, lined with white-washed buildings, offer picturesque views of the church tower, a prominent feature in the skyline.

Local vendors sell crafts and traditional goods, such as marionettes, which hang cheerfully in the market stalls. These everyday scenes of life in Alamos paint a vivid picture of a city that, while deeply rooted in its historical past, continues to thrive in the present.

Getting There

To reach Alamos, drive south on Highway 15 past Hermosillo, Guaymas, and Ciudad Obregon to Navojoa. Highway 15 runs through the middle of the city. At PEMEX 2134, turn east onto Highway Son 13 towards Alamos. The intersection is well-marked, ensuring an easy and scenic journey to this colonial jewel.

In Alamos, history, culture, and community converge, making it a must-visit destination for anyone traveling through Sonora. With its charming streets, historical significance, and welcoming locals, Alamos offers an unforgettable experience of old Mexico.

 

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Bahia de los Angeles Baja California

 (This was written in 1998 and prices and things have changed. It is still a charming town on a fishing bay.)

By Dorothy Bell

Photographs are By Bill Bell   

Bahia de Los Angeles is a place to kick back and relax. Located on the Sea of ​​Cortes along the coast of Baja California this community is a great place to relax, fish, kayak or hike.

If Baja is one of North America’s unspoilt jewels, then LA Bay is Baja’s crown jewel. Spectacular mountains at your back and dozens of islands wait to be explored. This is a getaway not easy to reach but worth the journey, especially for those who value unspoiled nature more than a mint on the pillow.

Bahia de los Angeles It gives me goose bumps every time. The first glimpse of the Sea of ​​Cortez from the road heading into Bahia de los Angeles is one of the best views on the Baja. The rugged mountain desert with scrubby desert and tall cirrus and cardon cacti, contrast with the deep turquoise blues of the bays water and the reddish rust color of the islands and lands near the waters edge. Goosebumps because it is so beautiful and so rugged yet fragile.

The town of Bahia de los Angeles is a small town approximately 10 hours drive from the border through Tijuana down Highway One. The highway snakes through small towns, towns and cities as well as fields of tomatoes and other produce; and desolate deserts areas. The number one makes a sharp eastward turn approximately ½ way through a 200 mile desert towards a large bay on the Sea of ​​Cortez.

     Bahia is small. It doesn’t have a grocery store larger than a 7-11 back home. Electricity is turned on and off at infrequently intervals – depending on how the municipal generator is working. Municipal water is horded by families and commercial enterprises as the municipal water is only turned on once, maybe twice a week. Telephone is via a satellite as is the local internet cafe.

Yet even without those basic services as we know them, Bahia’s charm for visitors is the portal to the Sea of ​​Cortez and all the activities that come with frequently calm waters with abundant fish. Kayaking is popular in Bahia, every motel or RV park seems to rent them out at reasonable daily rates of $15 a day or so depending on your bargaining skills. Fishing trips can easily be arranged too – best to arrange your own group of 4 fishers and get a boat for $150 to 180 per day.

If you bring your own boat there are a few places to launch your craft – apparently a rarity in the Baja. However be warned. Winds in this area can be torturous and can whip up the waters quickly. Northerly winds as well as a strong Westerly can suddenly make the glass-like surface of the Bay turn ugly. RV’s seek cover behind buildings or other structures to avoid the even gusts thumping at the sides of their rigs.

A town square has a large bandstand in the center and like many Mexican zocalos, faces the municipal hall. A good clean clinic is beside this zocalo with a 24 hour physician available at a nominal charge. No it doesn’t have all the latest equipment, but the Doctors are on “duty years” to pay back Mexican society for their education and are fresh out of Medical school and residency. On our last visit, the doctor was raised and educated until grade 12 in San Diego. Of course he spoke perfect English and was very helpful with any questions we had – either medical or of the area.

The local museum is a must both inside and out. The garden is of regional design and names all those cacti and plants you were curious about on your drive in. The museum itself is alive with local history and is a testament to the proud founding families that built this community.

There are no nightclubs in Bahia. This is not Mazatlan, Cabo or Cancun. It is a fishing village where the lights all go out at 11pm. Occasionally there will be a municipal dance or party held at the tennis court behind “Isla” a local neighborhood corner store and satellite internet café. There seems to be more people outside the event – unwilling to pay the cover charge to enter the event. There are a few low-key restaurants and bars.

The two hotel anchors in the area, Villa Vita and Guillermo’s, both offer restaurants, bars, rooms and RV spaces in town. The camping is basic. Often the services don’t work and in the case of Guillermo’s, the view is obstructed by permanent RV cabanas that dominate the waters edge. Dry camping is available in front of the motel rooms – and provides a view and access to water and the restaurant. Camping favorites though are out of town to either the north or the south along dirt/sand roads in various states of repair.

To the North is an old government site with only the sewer holes intact. It is associated with the turtle study/rescue effort and camping is by donation – $2 per night. Can’t beat the price for a spot right on the water. Daggett’s is the most popular spot in the area with 6 large shade palapas at each camping site on the Bay for $4 per person. There is no water or electricity but a dump station is available. A decent restaurant is open in the “season” from late October to March. There are rooms from $15 with hot showers and good beds. Kayak rentals are available.

There are a few corner stores where you can purchase supplies including frozen meats and fish but best to bring what you need down with you as the electricity at the best of times can be uncertain. Fresh fish can be purchased from fishermen coming back in the afternoons. This can be at different times due to tides which even with the boat launches can make it difficult to pull the boats out of the water.

Bottled water is sold everywhere and many places now have water purifiers in their stores where you fill up your own container. Bahia de los Angeles is the place for tranquil days and authentic traditional village life. It isn’t glamorous or flashy and has a particular charm that is mixed with healthy doses of substance and resilience.

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Yaxchilán, Chiapas