Journey to Yagul: Exploring Oaxaca’s Ancient Zapotec Ruins
Nestled within the picturesque Tlacolula Valley, the archaeological site of Yagul invites travelers to step back in time and discover the rich history of the Zapotec civilization. Known as “Old Tree” in Zapotec, Yagul offers an intriguing blend of natural beauty and ancient architecture that captivates the imagination.
A Glimpse into History
Yagul’s history stretches back thousands of years, with evidence of human settlement dating to 3000 BC. Ancient petroglyphs and paintings, attributed to hunter-gatherer tribes, adorn the nearby caves and shelters, providing a window into the lives of the area’s earliest inhabitants. Seeds and corn cobs found at the site indicate early plant domestication, highlighting the region’s agricultural significance.
The settlement of Yagul began around 500 BC, gradually developing into a vibrant urban center. With the decline of Monte Albán around 800 AD, Yagul prospered, reaching its zenith in the 1200s as the capital of a city-state with a population of 6,000. The site continued to thrive until the Spanish Conquest in the 16th century, after which its inhabitants were relocated to the nearby town of Tlacolula.
Key Historical Milestones
- 500 BC: Yagul is settled by the Zapotec and begins developing into an urban center.
- 500-700 AD: Massive building projects commence, including civic, ceremonial, and residential structures, as well as the ball court.
- 800 AD: Yagul flourishes following the abandonment of Monte Albán.
- 1250-1521 AD: The city becomes the capital of a city-state with a thriving population.
- 1550s: Following the Spanish Conquest, residents are moved to Tlacolula.
- 1950: Archaeologists Ignacio Bernal and John Paddock excavate the site.
- 1998: Yagul is declared a Natural Monument.
- 2010: The site is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Location and Geography
Located approximately 36 kilometers south of Oaxaca City, Yagul occupies a strategic position on a volcanic ridge on the northern side of the Tlacolula Valley, near the Salado River. The city’s location offers natural protection with cliffs and manmade barriers, providing excellent vantage points overlooking the valley below.
Exploring Yagul
The early planners of Yagul displayed remarkable ingenuity, creating a city divided into various levels. The Fortress overlooks the city, with two broad plazas occupied by the ruling class and priests. The highest level features administrative and political buildings, while slightly below, visitors find ceremonial and religious structures, including temples and the ball court. The commoners’ dwellings were located further down the hill, often near agricultural fields.
The Ball Court is a standout feature of Yagul, measuring 47 meters long and 6 meters wide, making it the largest in the Oaxaca Valley and the second largest in Mesoamerica after Chichen Itza’s Grand Ball Court. The court, shaped in the classic “I” design with an east-west orientation, was constructed between 500 and 700 AD and remodeled from 700 to 900 AD. Notably, a serpent’s head once embedded in the southern wall is now displayed at the Museum of the Santo Domingo Cultural Centre in Oaxaca.
Visiting Information
- Hours: Open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is 43 pesos, with free entry on Sundays for nationals and Mexican residents. Extra fees apply for video cameras.
- Duration: Allow 1 to 2 hours to explore the site, especially if hiking the hill for panoramic views.
Recommendations for Visitors
Visitors can enjoy a peaceful stroll through Yagul, often encountering few other travelers. Good walking shoes with non-skid soles are essential due to the site’s uneven terrain and steep climbs. Since there are no facilities on site, bringing water, insect repellent, a hat, and sunscreen is advised. Dressing appropriately for the season enhances comfort during the visit.
Getting There
- GPS Coordinates: N15.57.30 W096.45.28
- Bus: While no buses go directly to Yagul, passengers can request a stop and walk the 1.1 km road to the site, taking about 30 minutes.
- Tours: Tours often include Yagul as part of a combination package with Mitla and other sites along Highway 190.
- Driving from Oaxaca: Take Highway 190 south towards Mitla. Turn left and continue 1.5 kilometers to reach Yagul.
Conclusion
Yagul stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Zapotec civilization, offering visitors a chance to explore a once-thriving city that played a crucial role in the region’s history. Its blend of natural beauty and ancient architecture creates a unique travel experience that leaves a lasting impression on those who journey to this remarkable site.
