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Explore the New Restaurant Recommendations section for Jaltemba Bay – written by Tara Spears
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Invasion of the Leafcutter Ants

Tara A. Spears

Undulating like a soundless parade in the night, the legions of Leafcutter ants wave their pilfered leaves like colorful banners. Without interference, the marauding hordes can strip a two-meter tall shrub to bare stems in a matter of hours. For the first time in 15 years, my beloved Jaltemba Bay garden is under siege by the Leafcutter ants.

The name, Leafcutter Ant, is actually an umbrella term for dozens of species belonging to the two genera Atta and Acromyrmex. Characterized by their spiny, reddish-brown bodies and long legs, leafcutter ants — also called parasol ants for the way they carry their leaves like parasols above their heads — are incredibly hardworking fungus farmers, and fascinating creatures all around. These species are known for their sprawling, complex colonies and their exceptional physical strength, but they can do a lot of damage to forests or gardens.

Weirdly, the Leafcutter ants don’t eat the leaves they harvest. The sight of these insects, marching en masse with leafy greens held overhead, would naturally lead one to think they’re preparing a salad bar of epic proportions. However, the ants don’t eat the leaves; they feed them to their crops instead. A University of Montana study says the ants put them into “colony dumps,” similar to a landfill or compost pile, and that those dumps “create ideal conditions for the bacteria that make nitrous oxide,” a greenhouse gas. The decomposing leaves then help to fertilize the fungus gardens on which the ants sustain.

While there are natural Leafcutter ant predators, such as Army ants, the population of Leafcutter ants outpaces them. Birds, bats, and ground mammals feed on Atta queens searching for a nest site after mating as well as eating the ant brood. But, because the Leafcutter ant’s nest is inground, and consists of many individuals, a colony is difficult to eradicate.

The Leafcutter queen is the reproductive center of the colony and lives in chambers below the ground. Many colonies have five or more fertilized queens. Most eggs laid by the queens develop into sterile female workers. The workers (2 million or more) vary considerably in form and size; from 1/16 to ½ inch. Generally, large workers (soldiers) serve to protect the nest while medium-sized workers forage for plant material and construct tunnels and chambers, and the small workers maintain fungal gardens and care for brood ants.

During the spring months, some immature ants will develop into winged males and others into winged females. Workers will emerge at this time to widen entrance holes and remove all vegetation hanging over these holes. Mating flights then occur on clear, moonless nights following a rain of at least ¼ inch, primarily in May and June. Mated females disperse, land, and then congregate with other females to establish a new colony to continue the life cycle. Each female carries with her a plug of fungus to begin a new fungal garden.

The activity of the ants above ground depends largely on temperature, as foraging ants are highly sensitive to temperatures encountered along feeding trails. During the summer, the ants remain underground during the heat of the day, often plugging the central nest holes with soil and vegetative debris, apparently to regulate temperature and/or humidity within the nest. At dusk, when temperatures drop below 86 F, ants emerge to forage throughout the night.

In the winter, ants forage during the day primarily from entrance holes above the central nest, but sometimes remain underground for extended periods when temperatures remain below 50 degrees F. Early spring and late fall are transitional periods when ants may be active both during the day and night.

Treatment methods: I try to avoid using strong poisons in my house and yard but the Leafcutters are tough. I poured very hot water on the nest- stopped the ants for only one day. I poured vinegar down the entrance- two days relief. Next, I sprinkled uncooked white rice which only deterred the ants for two days. At this point, I’m going to use poison because this colony is very established and quite large. The ants are winning the battle but hopefully not the war- I want my flowering plants back!

There are commercial insect poisons that are available at the local hardware stores: Koranay Ferreteria and Pina Ferreteria, carry powder/ pellets, like Trompa, that will do the job. The Agricultural supply store just 2 blocks south of the main La Penita Avenida, also has several treatments. Ask for “control de hormigas cortadoras de hojas.”

Amdro® was originally designed for fire ants, but with the addition of sugars, has become somewhat attractive to leaf-cutting ants. Applications can be made in all seasons, but treatments should be postponed during periods of prolonged rain. Once the bait is applied, foraging ants search out the pellets and carry them underground. The first signs of control will be a reduction in foraging and excavation activity, usually within 5 – 7 days, after bait application. These activities will gradually stop and the colony will become inactive within 2 to 3 weeks.

According to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, studies of leafcutter ants have contributed to scientific advancements in pharmaceuticals and clean energy alternatives, due to their intake of cellulose, which they can’t themselves digest but their fungus crops help to break down. Recent discoveries of a sort of antibiotic-producing bacteria that they coat their bodies in has played an integral role in research on human antibiotics as well.

That is all well and good but my garden is being bombarded by these nocturnal marauders. It is so frustrating to come to sit on the patio with morning coffee and enjoy my tropical paradise…to find holes in the landscape instead. The ants can have all the jungle they want but I am drawing the ‘do not pass’ line before my yard.

Bustling Tianguis – La Penita Thursday Market

Notes and Photos from Bill Bell

Every Thursday, the town of La Peñita de Jaltemba undergoes a vibrant transformation. Nestled on the Pacific coast of Mexico in the state of Nayarit, La Peñita is typically a laid-back locale. But on Thursdays, it becomes the stage for its bustling tianguis, a traditional Mexican open-air market that draws both locals and tourists alike.

“Tianguis”, or street markets, are fascinating remnants of the pre-Hispanic age, and they are still very important to the commercial exchange of most cities and towns in Mexico. The word “tianguis” comes from the Nahuatl, an indigenous language spoken by the Aztecs, or “Aztecas”, and refers to an open-air market. The La Penita tianguis is a traveling one that moves up and down the Nayarit Coast on different days of the week.

The vendors begin their day at dawn, setting up stalls that line the streets of the town center. The variety is staggering—fresh produce, handcrafted jewelry, colorful clothing, and intricate artisanal crafts fill the spaces. The aroma of cooking food permeates the air, with tantalizing smells of tacos, freshly baked bread, and tamales inviting passersby to indulge.

The tianguis is not just a place to shop; it’s a cultural gathering that offers a glimpse into the heart of Mexico’s rich traditions.

During the tourist season Musicians roam the streets, serenading the crowd with folk tunes, while artisans proudly display their crafts, each piece telling a story of heritage and skill.

Tourists find the market a treasure trove for unique souvenirs—handmade pottery, vibrant textiles, and silver jewelry. It’s also an opportunity to mingle with the locals, learn about their way of life, and practice Spanish in lively exchanges.

One of the highlights for many visitors is the chance to sample local cuisine. From spicy salsas and fresh ceviche to sweet churros, the food is as much a cultural exploration as it is a culinary delight. The market is also a place where local farmers sell their produce directly to consumers, offering some of the freshest fruits and vegetables in the region.

As the day progresses, the crowd swells, and the energy of the tianguis reaches its peak. Laughter and conversation fill the air, creating a festive atmosphere that embodies the community spirit of La Peñita. By late afternoon, the vendors begin to pack up, and the streets slowly return to their usual calm.

The weekly tianguis in La Peñita de Jaltemba is more than just a market; it’s a vibrant celebration of community, culture, and cuisine, encapsulating the lively spirit of Mexico in every sense. For those who visit, it leaves an indelible mark, rich with the joy and vibrancy of Mexican life.

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Salt: Another Gift from Nayarit

Tara A. Spears Perhaps you never took the time to think about life without salt -except when preparing or enjoying a margarita. In any region of the world, salt has always been necessary for human survival. But, in the ancient history of Mexico, the dominating cultures (Aztecs/Maya/Incas) used salt as food, as an item of taxation or barter, and even as an instrument of pressure for political purposes. There are several familiar English terms that evolved due to the importance of salt: “He is not worth his salt” is a common expression. It originated in ancient Greece where salt was traded for slaves. Roman soldiers were paid “salt money,” from which we take our English word, “salary”.Due to the variety of locations of salt resources, as well as the geographical and geological diversity of the country, over the centuries Mexico has developed a wide variety of methods for obtaining salt. Today, it is still possible to see ancestral practices for obtaining salt and you can also see Mexican salt companies with cutting-edge technology in their production methods. Weather, climate, landforms and soils are of the greatest importance in all solar salt production, besides the availability of brine. Nayarit state is home to three sources of salt production besides many smaller artisan producers.For hundreds of years, Mexican salt producers have met the needs of this mineral in the country. From the time of the Olmecs to the present day, the Mexican salt industry meets the demands and challenges of a national and international market whose dynamics require a high degree of competitiveness. In 2024, Mexico is #8 in world production of salt, producing nearly 8 million tons annually.The importance of salt-sodium chloride-is enormous. “It has more than 14 thousand uses: from tanning skins to producing chlorine, soda, soaps, glass, and for de-icing roads in winter: a very important part of the world’s salt production goes to that sector. Salt has even been used in vaccines against COVID-19,” comments Sergio Moreno, general manager of the Mexican Association of the AC Saline Industry (AMISAC). “It goes without saying that for homes and the gastronomic industry, salt is a simple and simply indispensable ingredient.” In colonial Mexico, from the second half of the 16th century to the early 20th century, salt took on additional importance because Mexico was the first country in the world to use salt on a large scale for industrial purposes for the production of silver. Salt is found in nature in two forms: as a solid form or dissolved in the sea or in springs. About 85% of the salt produced in Mexico is marine which is produced by solar evaporation.. Sea salt is obtained via a labor-intensive process that includes evaporation. Most tourists will notice the prevalent roadside stands selling sea salt/sal de mar in kilo bags.Sea salt is harvested along the coastlines of the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. Whereas, rock salt is also produced using underground brines that are evaporated under high vacuum in the regions of Veracruz and Nuevo León. Likewise, salt is obtained from solar lagoons such as Laguna del Rey in Coahuila, Laguna del Jaco in Chihuahua and Laguna de Santa María in San Luis Potosí. The National Institute of Mexican Statistics states that most of the salt production in Mexico comes from the state of Baja California Sur with the rest is distributed in 14 states that include Nayarit. Contrary to common belief, the labor force involved in solar salt production is considered skilled labor no matter what aspect of production is involved, because experience plays an essential role at all levels.The history and the traditions of Mexico’s salt industry are an important chapter of its economic, social and political past. Against frequently adverse conditions, over thousands of years the country’s salt industry has supplied its inhabitants with salt. The often excruciatingly hard manual labor of the traditional salinero will soon belong to the past. Perhaps the revival of offerings to Huitociuatl, the Aztec goddess of salt, should be revived.Many people prefer the tasty flavor of sea salt over refined salt. The all-natural minerals from the rich soils enhance the character of Mexico’s sea salt. Healthy, zesty, unique, just like the country!

We’re Almost There: Bypass Highway Closed Again

Tara A. Spears“Heading on highway/ looking for adventure /and whatever comes my way…”The beachside communities of western Mexico have so much to offer but getting there is somewhat problematic. The first time that I drove from the larger city- with the international airport- it was interesting and exciting. Look at the tropical vegetation hugging the twisty two-lane! Such charming little settlements along the route-opps, that’s a speed bump (tompe)! Twenty years later, the volume of vehicles has at least tripled but the narrow serpentine highway 200 to the coastal paradise is still the same. The solution to providing better highway access to the Pacific beaches has not been easy.It is no longer fun to sit at a total stop due to an accident blocking the highway or to crawl along due to the sheer volume of travelers. Fortunately, the government approved adding modern 4 lane freeways to connect from major city to major city and enhance accessibility to the coastal tourist towns. In 2001 there were media reports of governmental approval to begin building the Guadalajara to Vallarta bypass super highway. I was so excited at the prospect of better driving time to and from Jaltemba Bay. Prep work began in 2008 with actual construction happening by 2011. The entire highway was planned to be completed in 2014 but by then I had stopped believing the straighter, more level highway would ever be achieved.16 years have passed without said project being completed. As of June 2021, the 67-kilometer stretch from Jala to Compostela (stage 1) has been the only section completed. The tourist region that includes Puerto Vallarta (Jalisco) and Bahía de Banderas (Nayarit) receives thousands of national and foreign tourists weekly. Carreteria 200 was not designed to handle this amount of volume and especially not the double eighteen-wheeler trucks making deliveries of beer and building supplies to the small coastal towns. In 2019 there were a record number of monthly deaths in highway accidents between La Varas -Vallarta. How horrible to go on a family vacation and end up dead instead of frolicking in the ocean! The public outcry motivated the federal government to increase funding and order more crews and seven-day workweeks in order to complete the bypass toll road. The 4-land toll road project was divided into 5 stages with several stages being under construction at the same time.One cannot criticize the government agencies that oversee the project for lack of effort. The Secretariat of Infrastructure, Communications and Transportation (SICT) and the National Infrastructure Fund Trust (FONADIN) have had major complications within the project including environmental issues-endangered species within the original path as well as discovering important archeological ruins- that had to be relocated. The biggest cause of slow progress is the terrain that had to be tamed: not only tropical rainforests but the Sierra Madre Mountains besides erosional surfaces through much of the projected route.It was a joyous occasion when it was announced in mid-March 2024 that the entire bypass road would be open in time for the Easter/spring break holiday which has the highest use every year. I, like most long-timers, rushed to check out that dream highway. It did not disappoint! It is not cheap to utilize the toll road but definitely worth it. To travel from Jala to Puerto Vallarta on the bypass cuoto, the 2024 toll fees for the toll road are about $1,000 pesos each way.Sadly, a mere three weeks later, the Stage 2 section that goes from Compostela to Las Varas was AGAIN closed to use! The initial opening of Stage 2 a few years ago had dangerous road collapse in a matter of weeks and was shut down. A new team of engineers and contractors were hired to overcome the shifty crust. The new plan was to avoid the weak base by cutting tunnels instead of going on top of the terrain. Billions of pesos have been spent on this highway in an effort to ease the vehicle pressure on the old highway 200. As of April, 2024, four of the 5 sections of the Guadalajara- Vallarta Autopiso are operational. Poso a poca, we are making progress! I have trust that the engineers will again overcome the natural obstacles and eventually get the Stage 2 road safe and useable.One needs to recognize the various factors that have delayed the realization of this challenging highway project. It has been a tremendous effort of federal, state, and private sectors working together to overcome the perplexing terrain. One way to look at the Jala-Vallarta bypass project is to applaud the tenacity, intelligence and ingenuity of the Mexican culture.

Cangrejito Restaurant Family Style Mexican Food

Tara A. Spears

If you enjoy hanging out in a neighborhood bar where the locals go, you’ll love going to Cangrejito’s Restaurant in Los Ayala.

Nestled on the south end of beautiful Jaltemba Bay, this family style restaurant and bar offers “friendly people, good food, good service” away from the hustle of the more commercial areas of the bay.

Hosts Gerardo and Karina Huizar Rodriguez work hard to make every visit to their restaurant relaxing and satisfying. Open every day except Wednesday from 8 am til 6pm, Cangrejito specializes in fresh caught seafood dishes. In the winter they have 3 days of live music and daily specials with breathtaking ocean views.

You can use Whatsapp +52 1 322 188 8270 to make reservations or visit their FB page Bungalows & Restaurant Cangrejito. You can walk from the beach, drive or take a taxi to Av. del Estero #4- there is a sign on the street. Cangrejito’s is perfect for a laid back day enjoying margaritas, surf and sun.

Originally from Guadalajara, as Gerardo’s family grew to six children, he wanted a safer, quieter neighborhood in which to raise his kids. One of his brothers had a job at a hotel in Los Ayala and after Geraldo’s family visited, they fell in love with the coastal community. As soon as Gerardo got a job the family moved to Los Ayala.

“I appreciated the simple, honest activities of the community,” said Gerardo. “The schools and people are good, without the problems of the city.”

After saving for several years, Gerardo and Karina were able to operate their own small bungalow and restaurant. “We wanted to present real Mexican food to celebrate our Mexican heritage.” Karina and three of their daughters create in the kitchen while Gerardo greets and manages service.

A look at the menu will make your mouth water! Be sure to try any of the shrimp entres, whole fried dorado (Zarandeado) as well as the house specialty-Crab Buster- which includes 5 types of fish. There are salads and appetizers if you want light fare. Of course, relaxing on the beach needs a pina colada or margarita to get into the Mexican lifestyle!

For Gerardo and Kaina, their reward is when customers leave happy or that they say they enjoyed the food or had good service. “We consider those that come back as friends, family.”

Cangrejito is a place of good Mexican food, good Mexican music, welcomed by a caring Mexican family who lives the adage “mi casa su casa.”

Relaxing good times on the Los Ayala beach. You will experience authentic Mexican dishes that are known for their bold flavors, colorful presentation, and the use of fresh ingredients such as avocado, tomatoes, chilies, and seafood.

At Cangrejito the traditional Mexican flavors like mole, adobo, and salsa add an extra layer of complexity and depth to the dishes.

Treat yourself to a simple, relaxing meal at Cangrejito on the beach. Mexican food has the power to bring people together.

Exotic Coastal Cuisine: Delectable Octopus

Tara A. Spears

“Mexican food is an aphrodisiac which excites the passion for living. It courts, seduces, ravishes, then cherishes all five senses.” – Richard Condon

Put this on the top of your to do bucket list: sample octopus. Along coastal Mexico, fresh seafood is a trademark and the local chefs create amazing entrees. Octopus can be prepared by blanching it in boiling water and then baking it, as well as boiling, grilling, or poaching. Because octopus evolves in taste depending on what ingredients are used when cooking, many prefer to eat it raw.

Local master chef, Jesus Glez said, “Octopus has a unique flavor but can be complemented with many types of marinades and salsas, it is very versatile.” His restaurant in La Colonia (north La Penita), Expresso89, features several tasty dishes featuring octopus: “We have fried octopus in tacos, or sautéed for chilaquiles, and included in our seafood burritos.” The majority of area restaurants include octopus in their shrimp cocktail and use it in beer cocktails.

There are around 300 species of octopus worldwide and, while they are technically mollusks like clams and oysters, they have the ability to control their movement. Like squid and cuttlefish, they are cephalopods, meaning their “arms” are seemingly attached directly to their heads. Octopuses have three hearts, eight arms and nine brains. A mouth like a parrot’s beak. No skeletal structure. And the amazing ability to change not only their size, color and patterns, but their texture as well to blend in, almost invisibly, with their surroundings.

Predators often swim right past them completely unaware the octopus is inches away. If it is discovered, it can eject a large cloud of ink, like a smoke screen, to obscure the attacker’s vision and swim away. Octopus are very fast swimmers, expelling water through their siphon, kind of “jet propelling” themselves through the water, and being boneless, they can squish themselves into the smallest crevice. If all else fails and it is actually grabbed by a predator, it can lose an arm or two if it has to, and regenerate them later with no permanent damage. Fascinating animals!

Many people wonder, what does it taste like? Octopus in not muscus-y like raw osters because the meat is very white with a nice, firm texture. If prepared correctly, it is not tough or chewy, but actually quite tender. To me, they taste kind of “scallopy” and “crabby” at the same time, and can be served in cold dishes as well as hot preparations.

Another star chef, Julio Parra of Julio’s Steakhouse in La Penita, says “octopus is very delicious and can be prepared in different ways such as ceviches, salads, aguachile, toasts, cocktails, garlic mojo, diablo, cucaracha, sarandeado. I personally prepare it in our restaurant using fines herbs.” He went on to explain that it is better to freeze octopus rather than using fresh caught because freezing kills possible harmful bacteria and makes the meat more tender. Julio shared one of his popular recipes, “Pulpo a la cucaracha” that is picante and flavorful but you should let him make it for you!

Thank you to chefs Jesus and Julio for sharing their tips for cooking octopus. “The most used technique is to “scare” the octopus (immerse it in boiling water for 5 seconds and remove it, repeat three times) and then let it cook until soft” said Jesus. “Add herbs, vegetables and spices to the water to give it more aroma and flavor.”

Typical seasonings that are used when preparing octopus: clove, garlic, chili, bay leaf, onion, citrus fruits, celery, etc.) Sometimes chefs add a touch of wine to make it softer. An interesting belief is to add wine bottle corks or copper coins, although it is more out of tradition than science. Once cooked, the octopus can be breaded, sautéed or coated to fry as well as it can be marinated prior to being grilled or roasted in a pan with butter. The following photos are Jesus preparing octopus and a couple of his entrees.

Octopus are not only great to eat but they have some real health benefits. They are a good source of manganese, which aids in the metabolism of cholesterol and carbohydrates, vitamin B12, riboflavin, calcium, iron, potassium, and they are an essential source of amino acids which help build protein and reduce the risk of cancer. Maybe best of all, they are low in fat, low in calories, and are a lean source of protein, ideal if you’re following a Whole 30, Paleo or Keto diet. Lately, octopus has gained in popularity NOTB as well as throughout interior Mexico in fine dining, high-class restaurants.

You can experience excellent octopus dishes at these two restaurants in La Penita: Expresso89 on the highway or downtown -Julio’s

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