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Toniná, Chiapas – “House of Rocks”
Photography by Bill and Dot Bell
Located in Chiapas, Mexico, and near Palenque, Toniná is a fascinating archaeological site that may have been built as early as 350 A.D. One of its distinctions is having the last recorded date of the Maya long count, marking it as a significant historical location.
History
Toniná was a separate dynastic center that held considerable power in its time. It has the prized distinction of defeating Palenque in war and capturing Pakal’s son, King Kan-Xul. The younger brother of Chan-Bahlum, Kan-Xul was held for ten years and subjected to humiliation. A notable frieze at the site depicts the captured King Kan-Xul with a rope around his arm, sitting in the pose of a captive.
Architecture
The building techniques at Toniná are notable for their use of small rocks, contrasting with the larger stones used in other nearby sites. One of the site’s features is its maze-like construction of rooms. The number of rooms and their alignment with the night sky have helped archaeologists determine the buildings’ functions.
A sarcophagus carved out of one large stone can be found on the third tier of the site. Although the carved lid is missing, it likely told the story of the entombed individual.
Visiting Toniná
Weather
Chiapas has a tropical climate with distinct wet and dry seasons. The best time to visit Toniná is during the dry season, from November to April, when the weather is more favorable for exploring. Expect temperatures to range from 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F). During the wet season, heavy rains can make travel difficult and the site slippery, so proper footwear is essential.
Safety Issues with Traveling by Car
When traveling to Toniná by car, keep the following safety tips in mind:
- Road Conditions: Some roads in Chiapas can be challenging, especially during the rainy season. Drive cautiously and be prepared for potential roadblocks or detours.
- Security: Chiapas is generally safe, but it’s always wise to remain vigilant. Avoid traveling at night and keep your valuables secure.
- Vehicle Preparedness: Ensure your car is in good condition, with a full tank of gas and a spare tire. Cell phone coverage can be sporadic, so have a map or GPS device handy.
What to Expect
Upon arrival at Toniná, you will find a site less crowded than the more famous Palenque, allowing you to explore at your own pace. The ruins are expansive, with numerous friezes and intricate carvings that tell the stories of the past. Take your time to study the details of the different friezes and the narratives they convey.
There are several levels to explore, each offering unique insights into the architectural prowess of the Maya civilization. The maze-like rooms and their celestial alignments provide a fascinating glimpse into the ancient culture’s understanding of astronomy and its application in their construction.
Photography Tips
- Lighting: Early morning or late afternoon provides the best natural light for photography, reducing harsh shadows and enhancing the details of the carvings.
- Equipment: Bring a good camera with a zoom lens to capture the intricate details of the friezes and other carvings. A tripod can be useful for steady shots in lower light conditions.
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Steep Climb at Toniná: Visitors navigate the steep and challenging steps of Toniná, revealing the site’s impressive verticality and the physical efforts required to explore it. Captured by Bill Bell.
Toniná is a hidden gem in Chiapas, offering a unique blend of historical significance, architectural marvels, and cultural narratives. Whether you’re a history buff, an archaeology enthusiast, or a casual traveler, Toniná promises an enriching experience. Enjoy the tranquility and take in the rich history captured within its ancient stones.
