Returning to Cozumel 20 years ago, this time via a cruise ship, offered a new perspective on the island. While the cruise experience was enjoyable, we found that staying on land provided a deeper connection to Cozumel's charm and beauty. © Bill Bell
Returning to Cozumel 20 years ago, this time via a cruise ship, offered a new perspective on the island. While the cruise experience was enjoyable, we found that staying on land provided a deeper connection to Cozumel’s charm and beauty. © Bill Bell

Rediscovering Cozumel: A Journey Through Time

by Bill Bell

Cozumel has transformed significantly since my first visit in the 1970s with my eldest son Sean (now deceased) and his cousin Francesca. It was during that trip that I first experienced the power of the Caribbean sun, suffering burns from a missed spot with sun protection. Despite these early misadventures, my love for Cozumel has endured.

Then and Now: The Evolution of Cozumel

In the past, Cozumel boasted a laid-back, tranquil atmosphere, renowned for its exceptional fishing, snorkeling, and diving. Unlike its flashier neighbor, Cancún, located just 40 miles (65 kilometers) to the north, Cozumel offered a serene escape with a distinctly low-key vibe.

Today, Cozumel retains much of its unique charm and remains an excellent choice for those who prefer a more authentic experience over planned resorts. However, the island has evolved from the sleepy backwater it once was. The snorkeling, diving, and fishing are still top-notch, but the island is no longer an undiscovered paradise.

The Impact of Cruise Ships

One significant change is the influx of cruise ships. Cozumel is the most popular cruise stop in Mexico, hosting up to 33 ships in a single week. When multiple ships dock, the island’s restaurants, bars, and shops bustle with day-trippers, bringing a vibrant but crowde

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One of the many luxury hotels on the island, the InterContinental Presidente Cozumel Resort & Spa offers stunning ocean views, premium amenities, and easy access to the island's renowned coral reefs, providing an unforgettable experience for travelers seeking both relaxation and adventure.

One of the many luxury hotels on the island, the InterContinental Presidente Cozumel Resort & Spa offers stunning ocean views, premium amenities, and easy access to the island’s renowned coral reefs, providing an unforgettable experience for travelers seeking both relaxation and adventure.

Exploring Cozumel Today

Despite the changes, Cozumel remains a haven for those interested in exploring its stunning coral reefs through scuba diving and snorkeling. Home to the largest reef in the Americas, the island offers unparalleled underwater adventures. The only town, San Miguel, has managed to retain much of its pleasant, small-town feel, providing a charming base for visitors.

Beyond Cozumel: Day Trips to Mayan Ruins

For those with enough time, the Mayan ruins of Tulum and Chichen Itza on the Yucatan mainland are within easy reach for a day trip. These historical sites offer a fascinating glimpse into the region’s rich cultural heritage and are well worth the visit.

Getting to Cozumel

By Air: The most convenient way to reach Cozumel is by flying directly into Cozumel International Airport (CZM). Several major airlines offer direct flights from key cities in the United States, Canada, and other parts of Mexico. From the airport, it’s a short taxi ride to your accommodation in San Miguel or other parts of the island.

By Ferry: If you’re coming from Cancún or Playa del Carmen, you can take a ferry to Cozumel. First, fly into Cancún International Airport (CUN). From there, take a bus or taxi to Playa del Carmen, about a 45-minute drive. Ferries to Cozumel depart regularly from Playa del Carmen and take approximately 45 minutes to reach the island.

 

 

By Cruise: Cozumel is a popular stop on many Caribbean cruise itineraries. Cruise ships dock at one of the island’s three piers: Punta Langosta, International Pier, or Puerta Maya. From the pier, you can easily access taxis or rental cars to explore the island.

Conclusion

Cozumel may have changed since my first visit decades ago, but its enduring appeal lies in its ability to blend the old with the new. Whether you’re a seasoned diver, a history enthusiast, or simply seeking a relaxing getaway, Cozumel continues to offer something special for every traveler. Embrace the evolution and discover the many layers of this beautiful Caribbean island.

 

 

Chinkultic, Chiapas, Mexico

View of Chinkultic Pyramid
This image captures a distant view of one of the stepped pyramids at Chinkultic, rising above the lush greenery of the Chiapas region. The pyramid’s stone structure stands in contrast to the dense forest, highlighting the ancient Maya’s architectural skills and their ability to integrate their structures with the natural landscape.

 Chinkultic is an ancient Maya archaeological site located in the state of Chiapas, Mexico. The site was inhabited from the Late Preclassic period (around 300 BC) through the Late Classic period (up to 900 AD). Chinkultic played a significant role in the political and economic landscape of the Maya civilization, serving as a regional center. The name “Chinkultic” means “stepped cenote” in the Mayan language, reflecting the site’s unique geographical and architectural features. The city is known for its distinctive acropolis, pyramids, and ball courts, as well as its integration with natural cenotes (sinkholes).

This close-up image showcases a carved stela found at Chinkultic. The intricate carvings depict a Maya figure, illustrating the site’s historical and cultural significance. These stelae served as commemorative monuments, often used to record important events and honor significant individuals in Maya society.

Description of the Current Site: Chinkultic features several noteworthy structures and areas, including:

  • The Acropolis: This elevated area contains several plazas, temples, and palatial structures, providing panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
  • Stepped Pyramid: A prominent stepped pyramid, located at the heart of the site, exemplifies the architectural style of the Maya.
  • Ball Courts: Chinkultic has multiple ball courts where the ancient Mesoamerican ballgame was played, highlighting the cultural and social importance of the sport.
  • Cenotes: The site is known for its natural cenotes, which were used for ritual purposes and as water sources. These cenotes add a unique natural element to the archaeological site.
  • Stelae and Altars: The site includes various stelae and altars with inscriptions and carvings, providing insights into the historical and religious practices of the Maya.

How to Get There:

  • By Car: Chinkultic is located approximately 56 kilometers (35 miles) from the city of Comitán de Domínguez in Chiapas. From Comitán, take Federal Highway 190 east towards La Trinitaria. After about 20 kilometers (12 miles), turn onto the local road leading to Chinkultic. The journey takes about 1 to 1.5 hours by car.
  • By Public Transport: From Comitán, you can take a bus or colectivo (shared taxi) to La Trinitaria and then hire a taxi or another colectivo to reach Chinkultic.

Weather: Chiapas has a tropical climate, with warm temperatures year-round. The average temperature ranges from 20°C to 28°C (68°F to 82°F). The dry season lasts from November to April, and the wet season runs from May to October. Visiting during the dry season is generally more comfortable due to lower humidity and fewer rain showers.

Another perspective of a pyramid at Chinkultic, this image shows the structure partially hidden by the verdant forest. The pyramid’s distinct steps and platform are clearly visible, offering insight into the Maya’s architectural techniques and their harmonious relationship with the surrounding environment.

Safety Precautions:

  • Sun Protection: Bring a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun, as the site is open and can be quite sunny.
  • Hydration: Carry plenty of water to stay hydrated, especially if visiting during the hotter months.
  • Footwear: Wear comfortable, sturdy walking shoes suitable for uneven terrain and climbing structures.
  • Insect Protection: Apply insect repellent to protect yourself from mosquitoes and other insects, particularly if visiting during the wet season.
  • Guided Tours: Consider hiring a local guide to enhance your understanding of the site and ensure you stay on safe, marked paths.
  • Personal Belongings: Keep an eye on your belongings and avoid leaving valuables in your car.

Chinkultic offers a fascinating glimpse into the Maya civilization’s history and culture, with its unique blend of natural and architectural features. Visitors can enjoy exploring the ancient structures, learning about the site’s significance, and appreciating the beautiful Chiapas landscape.