Mexico City taco stand makes history as 1st to earn Michelin star
Taquería El Califa de León received one star.
An overhead view of the Tacos El Califa de León taco stand, in Mexico City, May 15, 2024.
Taquerías are a quintessential part of Mexico’s street food scene and culture. And for the first time in history, the Michelin Guide has awarded one of its coveted stars to a tiny taco stand in Mexico City.
Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez has helmed the ripping hot flat top at Taquería El Califa de León for 20 years — searing off fresh meat to fill tortillas topped with red or green sauce — and on Tuesday, it became the first taco shop to obtain one of the French dining guide’s prestigious honors.
The 1st Mexico City taquería to make Michelin star history
The humble 10-foot by 10-foot taquería has been in business in Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhood for 70 years, according to the Michelin Guide inspectors.
With four varieties of tacos on the menu — Gaonera (thinly sliced beef filet), bistec (beef steak), chuleta (pork chop), and costilla (beef rib) — Martínez told Michelin “the secret is the simplicity of our taco.”
A plate of tacos at Taquería El Califa de León in Mexico City.
The MICHELIN Guide
“That, and the quality of the meat,” he added.
What to expect at Taquería El Califa de León
A customer finishes squeezing lime juice on his tacos at the Tacos El Califa de León stand
For James Beard award winning food writer Bill Esparza, who has eaten at the taco stand, “Bliss is a trio of tacos of thick cut bistec, costilla, and gaonera on handmade corn tortillas simply dressed with salsa de tomatillo crudo with diced onions, and a smoky salsa de chile pasilla at El Califa de León,” he told “Good Morning America.”
El Califa de León received one star, recognizing its “high quality cooking,” according to Michelin’s description of the designation.
“Tacos are a way of life, formed from indigenous invention, with the tortilla as utensil that’s certainly Michelin-worthy,” Esparza said. “El Califa de León’s One Star rating celebrates indigenous innovation, and contemporary Mexican culture, placing on the world stage. It’s very befitting that the first taqueria to receive a Michelin star is an institution that’s valued for its sincerity. A taco made with a fine tortilla, well-seasoned meat, and complex salsas is world class dining.”
“This taqueria may be bare bones with just enough room for a handful of diners to stand at the counter but its creation, the Gaonera taco, is exceptional,” Michelin Guide states in its newly updated guide. “Thinly sliced beef filet is expertly cooked to order, seasoned with only salt and a squeeze of lime. At the same time, a second cook prepares the excellent corn tortillas alongside. The resulting combination is elemental and pure.”
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What Is in the Water in Mexico That Makes You Sick? | Important Health Precautions
Avoid Ordinary Tap Water
While tap water treatment, filtration, and purification have greatly improved in Mexico, it’s still not a good idea to drink ordinary tap water during your visit. Here’s why: Sanitation standards for purified water are still different from what you are normally used to, and that’s why traveler’s tummy strikes. Exposure to bacteria, viruses, or parasites that might remain in the drinking water can cause gastrointestinal upset and other unpleasant symptoms, sometimes severe enough to wreck your vacation. It’s a problem that’s more prevalent than you might think: According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 30 to 70 percent of travelers will come down with some form of stomach upset during their adventures abroad. In our opinion, it’s better to sit on a beach than a toilet, so be safe rather than sorry! Drink bottled, purified water at all times, be sure you’re the one breaking the seal, and keep that water in its original container while guzzling it down (don’t pour it into a glass or mug).
It’s easy to find bottled water in Mexico. It is everywhere you’ll likely go, from your resort or hotel to beach snack bars and even street vendors. You won’t pay much — only about a dollar a bottle — but in exchange, you’ll get a lot of peace of mind. Mexican brands include Bonafont and Ciel, but those you’ll find at home, including Dasani, Evian, Fiji, and VOSS, are the most popular.
One other thing to note: At home, many of us carry around metal or heavy plastic bottles, filling them up with water throughout the day at drinking fountains or faucets. While commendable from a sustainability point of view, that’s not a habit you want to take with you to Mexico. Toss, or if possible, recycle your water bottles as you go, and get fresh, sealed ones as needed. Do not ever refill a disposable drinking water bottle!
Insist On Bottled Water At Restaurants
Of course, you should get out there and sample the local cuisine: Mexican food was the first national cuisine to be recognized by UNESCO on its List of Intangible Cultural Heritage, after all! It’s absolutely delicious, and you’ll want to get your share of freshly prepared tacos, tortas, and all the rest while sightseeing or at cantinas recommended by your concierge or guide. However, it’s important to insist on bottled water rather than tap water when you are out to eat. Bringing a few bottles with you during your off-resort adventures is always a terrific idea as well, just in case you find yourself in a spot where it’s not available.
Ice Is Off-Limits
Chances are you’ll polish off your fair share of ice-cold beverages during your time in Mexico; it is important to stay hydrated in the country’s hot climate! No matter your beverage of choice — be it a cerveza, a margarita, or even a refreshing fruit agua fresca — don’t use cubes to keep it cold. Again, if you don’t know for sure where the water for that ice is coming from, you’re taking a chance on an illness. It’s just not worth the risk.
Skip The Salad
While you’re likely to be just fine with foods cooked to safe temperatures, you’ll want to avoid some fruits and vegetables when you’re out and about. Some restaurants in Mexico do soak produce in anti-germ solutions before serving it, but there are no guarantees. Salad ingredients such as lettuce and other greens can retain large amounts of water when they are rinsed, and if a germ solution isn’t used on them, they could end up causing you some serious stomach distress. Again, be cautious here and take a yellow-light approach: Skip the salad (you’re on vacation, after all!), and don’t eat any raw fruit or vegetable you can’t peel yourself.
Keep Your Eyes Peeled For The Seal
The only exception to these rules involves restaurants that display the Distintivo H seal of approval. This award goes to eateries that have used a food safety consultant to train staff in food and water quality best practices. It’s a demonstrated commitment to customer safety that’s difficult to attain; it’s the most important award given to Mexican restaurants. Most high-end resorts have achieved the seal. If during your adventures you find a place with the seal, feel free to sip the water, crunch on ice, or even gorge on those greens without worrying. This very likely includes your resort or hotel, but it’s worth asking about when you check in. If you want to grab a bite to eat off-site, the staff members at the hotel or resort where you’re staying would be happy to direct you to local restaurants that have earned the Distintivo H seal.
Boil Water For Coffee Or Tea
Need a caffeine fix first thing in the morning, before you even leave your hotel room? Completely understandable! If you’re out of bottled water to throw in that coffee machine, you can use boiled tap water. Just make sure it gets to a rolling boil for 5 minutes before tossing in your beans or a tea bag — that will be enough to kill off any and all organisms that could make you sick. Many hotels will offer guests hot pots or kettles for this very reason. Do yourself a favor and use it if one’s in your room.
Best Bottled Water in Mexico
Stick with established and trustworthy brands when buying bottled water in Mexico such as E-Pura, Ciel, Sante, Bonafont, and Electrpura. Taste-wise and reputation-wise, many say the best bottled water in Mexico is from the E-Pura brand.
Use a Water Filter Water Bottle When on the Move
Water filter bottles offer on-the-go water safety, allowing travelers to access clean drinking water wherever they are. Water filter bottles allow tourists to safely drink Mexican water from any tap on the beach, in the city, or in the rural countryside.
The filter removes unsafe contaminants that could make you sick including viruses, bacteria, parasites, heavy metals, chemicals, and microplastics. Water filter bottles are more cost-effective than bottled water, and much more friendly to the environment.
Beware of Montezuma’s Revenge
Traveler’s diarrhea or Montezuma’s revenge as they call it in Mexico is usually a self-limiting episode of diarrhea that results from drinking Mexican water or eating food that is contaminated with bacteria or viruses that commonly cause loose stools and stomach cramps. It is most common in developing countries that lack resources to ensure proper water quality.
Use Bottled Water For Brushing
When it comes right down to it, the amount of water you actually ingest while brushing your teeth is pretty small. So is the chance that the agua coming from your hotel sink has actually been purified, so don’t take chances! A good thing to do when traveling to countries like Mexico is to leave a bottle of water right by your faucet. It’s a quick visual reminder of the precautions you need to take, even when you’re still sleepy first thing in the morning. A quick dip of your brush is all you really need, both when you begin to brush and when you rinse your brush off. Heeding this advice can save you from spending your vacation in misery.
Keep Your Mouth Shut In The Shower
It’s the vacation mistake that was immortalized by Charlotte in Sex and the City. Do not open your mouth in the shower while you are south of the border. Even if your resort says it offers filtered water, chances are that the water you’re washing with is not potable. That means that even a tiny, accidental drop can cause you severe distress while you’re on your vacation. Save your oohing and aahing for the gorgeous sunsets over the beach, and keep your mouth shut while showering or bathing.
Think Twice Before Taking A Dip
You’ll also want to make sure that any swimming pool, hot tub, or spa you enter is clean and well maintained. At your resort, that shouldn’t be an issue. However, it could get complicated if you choose to take a dip off-site. Recreational water can appear clear, but if it’s not chemically maintained, it can be infected with pathogens that can make you sick. Take our advice: Save the splashing and swimming for your hotel’s pool — or, better yet, the ocean!
What To Do If You Slip Up
So, despite all of your precautions, what if you forget to keep your mouth closed in the shower? Or what if you grab that glass of tap water filled with local ice at a cantina away from your resort? Maybe you’ve splashed in a fountain in a charming little beach town for a quick cool-down. Don’t panic! In most cases, a simple Pepto-Bismol or Imodium pill or two can work wonders. Another thing to consider is taking along a preemptive antibiotic prescription should you accidentally drink or ingest tap water. If you take it as directed — typically at the first sign of stomach upset — it should keep you from getting too sick, and it could very well save your vacation. A simple phone call to your doctor explaining your upcoming travels is likely all you’ll need to get the prescription for doxycycline or ciprofloxacin, and it’s a great peace-of-mind item to add to your carry-on. If you do get ill and end up taking the emergency pills, you’ll want to touch base with your doctor once you’re back home to make sure further tests or treatment isn’t needed.
To Sum Up
In Mexico, tap water varies in safety by region, with risks of contamination. To ensure safe drinking water, bottled water is recommended for visitors. Look for reputable brands like Ciel, Bonafont, or San Pellegrino. Always confirm the seal is intact before purchasing, providing a reliable and convenient alternative.
How Mexico celebrates Cinco de Mayo
Cinco de Mayo is only celebrated in some parts of Mexico, primarily in the state of Puebla, where the battle that it commemorates took place, and also in Mexico City, the country’s capital. Pictured here on May 5, 2016, artists take part in the reenactment of the Battle of Puebla – Mexico’s victory over France on May 5, 1862 – during its anniversary celebration at Penon de los Banos neighborhood in Mexico City.
The holiday is often celebrated and remembered with a reenactment of the Battle of Puebla, in which a small army of Mexican patriots and peasants were victorious over a French force. Although in 1863 France finally took the Mexican capital and installed a five-year regime led by Emperor Maximilian, the Battle of Puebla’s importance lies in that it strengthened the Mexican spirit after it prevented French Emperor Napoleon III from conquering the country.
Soldiers wearing period costumes take part in a re-enactment of the Battle of Puebla in Puebla, Mexico, on May 5, 2011. The battle marked the defeat of French forces by Mexican troops and local Indians in the central state of Puebla in 1862.
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Barbacoa: Mexican Style Barbeque
My favorite type of cuisine is any meat or fish barbequed. Any season, any country, bring me a grilled entre! Of all the tasty Mexican dishes available, I LOVE barbacoa- tender, succul
ent meat that has been smoked and roasted over a grill. Any fan of barbeque knows that it is the regional twists to seasonings that make barbeque meat outstanding; it’s the same in Mexico. Different geographic regions have preferred spices and secret family recipes that are unique to that state. While some of the seasonings are constant throughout the country, chile, for example, the proportions and method of meat preparation varies regionally.
The dish of barbacoa runs deep within the culture of Mexico from ancient time. Centuries ago the indigenous Mexicans heated food over an open fire. They used cast iron pots and clay dishes over a smoky wood fire. Today, chefs can get a similar result by using a grill. Grilling also enhances the flavors in Mexican dishes by bringing out the unique flavor that comes from cooking over an open fire. Almost any decent cut of meat can be marinated in Mexican flavors and grilled to bring out the smoky taste.
A traditional Mexican way of eating barbacoa is having it served on a warm soft taco style corn tortilla with guacamole and salsa for added flavor. In some areas, the meat is often served in the banana leaves it was cooked in. Traditional garnish to accompany Mexican barbacoa includes: red and green spicy sauce, onion, lemon, radishes, cucumbers, stewed onions, chiles as well as guacamole and crema (sour cream).
According to Mexican food expert, Chelsie Kenyon, the ancient, traditional method used to prepare meats was steaming. Barbacoa was made by steaming meat suspended over boiling water in a deep pit. The meat was often wrapped in cactus or banana leaves.
Traditional Mexican barbacoa seasonings are onion, garlic, oregano, cumin and chili powder. Mexican oregano gives their dishes a rich earthy flavor. The Mexican Chile powder is actually a blend of dried, powdered chiles, cumin and oregano. Other spices are sometimes included in the mix, but those are the key ingredients. It is used primarily for seasoning meats and vegetables but is also used in other dishes. Other ‘must have’ ingredients for Mexican style barbacoa include the following seasoning: garlic, onion, Tamarind, bay leaves, fresh cilantro.
Another chile powder commonly used that is gaining popularity outside of Mexico is Chipotle. Actually, chipotle is just a jalapeno that has been dried and smoked. Chipotle has a distinctive flavor that goes well in many sauces and salsas. It is also the primary flavor in Adobo, a fiery marinade.
Let’s take a look at the seven different regions of Mexican cooking and their signature dishes. Starting at the top of the country is the vast region that makes up “El Norte”-encompassing the states of Baja, Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Durango, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, Nuevo Leon and Tamaulipas. This area stretches 2000 miles from the rugged Pacific coast of Baja California to the lowlands of the Gulf of Mexico, and its cuisine reflects the hearty and unpretentious nature of ranch culture. T
he region’s distinctive cooking technique is expertly grilled beef, and the most popular dishes include machaca, arrachera ( beef flank steak used for fajitas) and cabrito (baby goat). One of the most requested dishes is ‘Mochomos style’ beef. The beef is salted, shredded and dried in accordance with northern Mexican tradition with the meat then being fried. It is so tender that the meat melts on your tongue! Luscious!
The Pacific North Coast region includes states of Sinaloa, Nayarit, Jalisco and Colima. Stretching along Mexico’s long Pacific shoreline and supplying much of the country’s staple grains, fruits and vegetables in addition to the freshest and widest selection of local cheeses, chiles, and seafood. The North Pacific Coast cuisine is noted for dishes such as chilorio, birria, pozole, chilayo, menudo and pork dishes. Birria, a traditional cuisine of Jalisco is prepared with goat meat or lamb in a tomato broth and chile.
An immense plateau bordered by rugged mountains, the Bajio region consists of Michoacan, Guanajuanto, San Luis Potosi and Queretaro. el Bajio cuisine are rice, pork and spices. One of the best-known dishes from the state is morisquesta – a sausage and rice dish – closely followed by carnitas, or deep-fried pork. The latter can be found in many parts of Mexico, often claimed to be authentically Michoacán.
The highlands of Oaxaca, Guerrero and Chiapas make up the Southern Pacific Coast region. This area remains the most purely Indian region, boasting the most indigenous of Mexico’s provincial cuisines. The regional cooking includes staples such as chicken and pork, mole sauces, and chiles.
The food of the Yucatán peninsula- including the states of Campeche, Yucatan & Quintana Roo- is distinct from the rest of the country and is based on Mayan food with influences from Cuba and other Caribbean islands, Europe, Asia and Middle Eastern cultures. The area’s best-known dish, pibil, refers to the cooking method (from the Mayan word pib, meaning “buried”) in which foods and various meats are wrapped, generally in banana leaves, and cooked in a pit oven. I have had lamb barbcoa prepared in this manner and it is fabulous: spicy tender and moist.
The eastern region consists of Tabasco & Veracruz. The balmy, easy-going world of the states that border the Gulf of Mexico is culturally – as well as geographically – an arm of the Caribbean and is the essence of the region’s cuisine, a mix of indigenous, Afro-Cuban and Spanish that shares the Creole culture of Colonial Caribbean port towns like Havana, San Juan, Cartagena and even New Orleans. The Europeans introduced herbs to the region such as parsley, thyme, marjoram, bay laurel and cilantro that characterize much of the state’s cooking. Huachinango a la veracruzana, a local popular dish, is red snapper prepared with a light tomato sauce seasoned with bay leaves, onions, capers, olives and sweet yellow peppers.
The last region, Central Mexico, consists of Mexico, Puebla, Morelos, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo and Distrito Federal (Federal District). Mexico City cooking is characterized by influences from other regions of Mexico as well as a number of foreign countries. Many of the ingredients used in this area’s cooking, such as tropical fruits, are not grown here. Nearly every street has a variety of quick cuisine, with taco stands, torta (sandwich) shops, and lunch counters on every street. Popular foods in the city include barbacoa (a specialty of the central highlands).
The next time that you’re dining out, try one of the Mexican regional barbacoa specialties. From cabieria (tenderloin) to costillas (ribs) and every other grilled meat, you can’t go wrong. Add a Margarita to the meal and enjoy the sunset!