Monte Albán, Oaxaca

Monte Albán, Oaxaca

A Guide to Exploring Monte Albán

Monte Albán is a large pre-Columbian archaeological site in the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca. It is located on a low mountainous range rising above the central section of the Valley of Oaxaca, where the Etla, Tlacolula, and Zimatlán/Ocotlán branches meet. The present-day state capital, Oaxaca City, is approximately 9 km (5.8 mi) east of Monte Albán.

The civic-ceremonial center of Monte Albán is situated atop an artificially leveled ridge, with an elevation of about 1940 m (6368 ft) above sea level, rising 400 m (1312 ft) from the valley floor. The site is characterized by several hundred artificial terraces and clusters of mounded architecture covering the ridgeline and surrounding flanks. The ruins on the nearby Atzompa and El Gallo hills to the north are traditionally considered part of the ancient city.

Monte Albán’s importance stems from its role as the pre-eminent Zapotec socio-political and economic center for close to a thousand years. Founded around 500 BC, by the Terminal Formative period (ca. 100 BC-AD 200), Monte Albán had become the capital of a large-scale expansionist polity that dominated much of the Oaxacan highlands and interacted with other Mesoamerican regional states such as Teotihuacan. By the end of the Late Classic period (ca. AD 500-750), the city had lost its political pre-eminence and was largely abandoned.

The etymology of Monte Albán’s name is unclear, with suggestions ranging from a corruption of a native Zapotec name such as “Danibaan” (Sacred Hill) to a colonial reference to a Spanish soldier named Montalbán or the Alban Hills of Italy. The ancient Zapotec name of the city is not known.

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Photography by Bill Bell

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Planning Your Visit

By Dorothy and Bill Bell

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Monte Albán is right when the site opens in the morning for three main reasons:

1. Fewer people.
2. Fewer vendors.
3. Cooler, fresher air for easier walking, hiking, and climbing.

From a photographer’s perspective, the morning light produces a nice creamy glow for your photos.

Length of Visit

A visit to Monte Albán will likely take 2 to 4 hours of moderate walking. The Main Plaza is 300 meters (984 feet) long, and you will likely walk it 2 to 4 times, making for a 600 to 1200 meter (1969 to 3937 feet) walk. Additionally, climbing both the North and South platforms and touring these and the grounds require additional energy and stamina. The site is 1940 m (6400 ft) above sea level, so be prepared to take breaks if you’re not used to such heights.

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Weather and Climate

Monte Albán has a high elevation, so mornings can be cool, and afternoons can get hot. Plan accordingly based on the time of year and time of day.

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How to Get There

Driving: Driving from Oaxaca is relatively easy with well-signed directions. Note that the roads in Oaxaca have many potholes and topes, making navigation challenging. It takes approximately 10 to 15 minutes to drive the 10 km (6.2 miles) to Monte Albán. There is free parking onsite.

Taxi: Taking a taxi from Oaxaca is inexpensive. For 100 pesos, you should be able to negotiate a ride. The return trip might be more expensive.

Tours and Tour Buses: Your best bet is to select a tour bus from your hotel, ensuring a business connection and possible recourse if something doesn’t work out. Select one that guarantees bilingual tours if needed. Compare what tours offer, such as entrance fees, guides, lunch, and additional activities. Costs vary from $45 to $70 USD.

Bus (Self-guided) and Walk: The cheapest option is to locate city buses heading towards Monte Albán. The fee is less than 10 pesos, but you will need to walk approximately one hour uphill from the drop-off point.

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Accommodation

Hotels & Apartments: Search the internet for the best price and quality of hotel in Oaxaca City. Consider searching for apartments for stays longer than a week, including Craigslist.

RV Parks and Camping: The Oaxaca Trailer Park is close to Centro Oaxaca but needs repairs. The Overlander Oasis in El Tule is our preferred park, with bilingual hosts who treat you like family.

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What to Wear

• Footwear: Wear comfortable, non-skid shoes. The stairs of the pyramids and temples can get very slippery.
• Backpack: Bring a backpack to store water, extra layers of clothes, your wallet, and your camera. It’s important to have your hands free if climbing the pyramids.
• Clothing: In winter, wear a light jacket and layers. In warmer months, pack a sweater and breathable clothing. Shorts are acceptable.
• Accessories: Wear a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses. Pack your camera, of course.

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Safety Precautions

• Stay hydrated by bringing plenty of water.
• Be cautious of slippery steps on the pyramids and temples.
• Take breaks to avoid altitude sickness, especially if you are not accustomed to high elevations.
• Protect yourself from the sun with a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses.

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Historical Notes

Monte Albán’s builders started the city well before Teotihuacan or any Aztec city. The top of a hill was leveled for the main plaza between 500 to 100 BC. The plaza, 300 x 180 meters, was paved with white stucco. The layout symbolized the Zapotec religious belief system, with the Southern Platform representing the underworld, the Northern Platform the celestial, and the ball court connecting the human and divine worlds. The Central Plaza was the main location for civic-ceremonial rituals and elite residential structures.