Mexico City taco stand makes history as 1st to earn Michelin star

 

Mexico City taco stand makes history as 1st to earn Michelin star

Taquería El Califa de León received one star.

 An overhead view of the Tacos El Califa de León taco stand, in Mexico City, May 15, 2024.

Taquerías are a quintessential part of Mexico’s street food scene and culture. And for the first time in history, the Michelin Guide has awarded one of its coveted stars to a tiny taco stand in Mexico City.

Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez has helmed the ripping hot flat top at Taquería El Califa de León for 20 years — searing off fresh meat to fill tortillas topped with red or green sauce — and on Tuesday, it became the first taco shop to obtain one of the French dining guide’s prestigious honors.

The 1st Mexico City taquería to make Michelin star history

The humble 10-foot by 10-foot taquería has been in business in Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhood for 70 years, according to the Michelin Guide inspectors.

With four varieties of tacos on the menu — Gaonera (thinly sliced beef filet), bistec (beef steak), chuleta (pork chop), and costilla (beef rib) — Martínez told Michelin “the secret is the simplicity of our taco.”

A plate of tacos at Taquería El Califa de León in Mexico City.

The MICHELIN Guide

“That, and the quality of the meat,” he added.

What to expect at Taquería El Califa de León

A customer finishes squeezing lime juice on his tacos at the Tacos El Califa de León stand

For James Beard award winning food writer Bill Esparza, who has eaten at the taco stand, “Bliss is a trio of tacos of thick cut bistec, costilla, and gaonera on handmade corn tortillas simply dressed with salsa de tomatillo crudo with diced onions, and a smoky salsa de chile pasilla at El Califa de León,” he told “Good Morning America.”

El Califa de León received one star, recognizing its “high quality cooking,” according to Michelin’s description of the designation.

“Tacos are a way of life, formed from indigenous invention, with the tortilla as utensil that’s certainly Michelin-worthy,” Esparza said. “El Califa de León’s One Star rating celebrates indigenous innovation, and contemporary Mexican culture, placing on the world stage. It’s very befitting that the first taqueria to receive a Michelin star is an institution that’s valued for its sincerity. A taco made with a fine tortilla, well-seasoned meat, and complex salsas is world class dining.”

“This taqueria may be bare bones with just enough room for a handful of diners to stand at the counter but its creation, the Gaonera taco, is exceptional,” Michelin Guide states in its newly updated guide. “Thinly sliced beef filet is expertly cooked to order, seasoned with only salt and a squeeze of lime. At the same time, a second cook prepares the excellent corn tortillas alongside. The resulting combination is elemental and pure.”

 

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