La Paz, Baja California Sur

La Paz: A Peaceful Haven with a Rich History and Vibrant Culture

“I remember the first time we saw La Paz. It was a sunny Sunday morning, and we had just disembarked from a ferry from Mazatlán. The town was quiet, peaceful, and exceptionally clean.

‘God, this is beautiful,’ I said as we drove along the malecón. ‘Bill, I think we should retire here.’

Of course, this was just one of the many places in Mexico that we fell in love with, but it has remained a very sentimental favorite for us.”
— Dorothy Bell

Name: La Paz means “Peace” in Spanish
Founded: May 3, 1535
Elevation: Sea Level
Climate: Desert, with little rainfall

Daily Average Temperatures:

• January: High 23.6°C (74.5°F), Low 11.2°C (52.2°F)
• July: High 36.6°C (97.9°F), Low 22.9°C (73.2°F)

Hurricane Season: June to November
Rainy Season: Minimal rain, with occasional unpredictable downpours and high humidity from July to September
High Tourist Season: Christmas, Semana Santa (Holy Week); the bulk of American and Canadian tourists visit between November and March
Population: 216,000

Peace? Anything but…

The Spanish conqueror Hernán Cortés arrived in the Bay of La Paz on May 3, 1535. Indigenous hunter-gatherers had lived in the region for over 10,000 years prior. (You can still visit many nearby cave paintings.) Cortés’s attempt to establish a colony, named Santa Cruz, failed.

In 1596, Sebastián Vizcaíno made another attempt to settle the area, renaming the settlement La Paz. The Jesuits later built a mission in 1710, but it, too, was abandoned due to disease, the harsh desert climate, and uprisings by the Indigenous people.

A hurricane destroyed Loreto in 1829, prompting the capital of Baja to be moved to La Paz.

In 1854, American promoter and entrepreneur William Walker captured Baja and declared La Paz the capital of his newly formed republic. This republic lasted only five months, as the U.S. government did not support the annexation.

John Steinbeck’s novel “The Pearl” (1947) was inspired by La Paz, which he also mentions in his “Log from the Sea of Cortez.” The once-thriving pearl diving industry in La Paz was devastated by disease in the 1930s.

The completion of the Transpeninsular Highway in 1973 brought waves of fishermen, explorers, and tourists, eager to discover the marvels of this land.

La Paz Today:

La Paz is the capital city of Baja California Sur, benefiting from government investment and a variety of educational institutions.

It’s a wonderful place to relax and enjoy your time under ancient laurel trees or among the coconut and date palms. There are beautiful beaches, city plazas, and, of course, the 5-kilometer malecón, where you can sit and watch the magnificent sunsets.

Explore the city square or visit the 19th-century Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Paz, built by Dominican priests on the site of the city’s original Jesuit mission. Photos from the original mission are on display here.

La Paz is also a seafood lover’s paradise. Dorado, sailfish, tuna, blue marlin, rock oysters, clams, abalone, and lobster are abundant. The city offers a wide variety of dining options, including Italian, Japanese, and even an excellent Chinese restaurant.

Attractions and Activities:

French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau once called the Sea of Cortez “the aquarium of the world,” and La Paz sits at its southern doorstep. Fishing is excellent here, with boat charters far more reasonable than in the mega-resort areas to the south.

The natural environment attracts divers, eco-tourists, naturalists, and whale watchers. Whale watching is particularly spectacular and provides eco-friendly employment for many local families.

Beaches abound in La Paz, ranging from quiet, secluded spots to lively family party places—take your pick. Boaters and kayakers can explore many pristine islands and beautiful, unspoiled bays. Small cruise boats are available for those looking to discover more of this incredible sea playground.

The Regional Anthropology and History Museum of South Baja California offers paleontological and archaeological exhibits, including fossils dating back 60 million years, cave paintings, engravings by the peninsula’s original Indigenous inhabitants, and information on the region’s missions.

Major Events and Festivals:

La Paz hosts numerous Mexican celebrations throughout the year. The city is also known for its entertaining Carnival in the spring and various off-road races held across the peninsula. Be sure to check a local calendar for upcoming events.

Getting There:

You can reach La Paz by driving down Highway 1 through the Baja Peninsula or by taking a ferry from Mazatlán or Topolobampo (Los Mochis) on the Mexican mainland.