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Lo de Marcos, Nayarit: A Journey from Coconut Farming to Tranquil Coastal Gem
Photography by Bill Bell
Idyllic Mexican Village: Lo de Marcos
By Tara A. Spears
As the Riviera Nayarit continues to rise in popularity among international and national tourists, one of its hidden coastal treasures is Lo de Marcos—a perfect beachside escape for those who truly want to get away from it all. This quaint community, with a population of less than 3,000, offers visitors an authentic taste of traditional Mexican life, complete with verdant mountains, tropical vegetation, a freshwater estuary, and a stunning, unspoiled Pacific Ocean beach. In Lo de Marcos, you won’t find high-rise chain hotels; instead, the village is composed of charming single-story homes, with only a few two-story residences and bungalows. While the village provides basic shopping along its two main streets, access to larger communities via Highway 200 is just a 15-minute ride by Mexican taxi.
The Transformation from Coconut Farming to Tourism
Over the past five years, Lo de Marcos has undergone significant improvements, including the revitalization of its vibrant town square. These developments are thanks to the combined efforts of local residents and dynamic international seasonal visitors through the active Amigos Lo de Marcos civic group. For more information on upcoming events and ongoing civic projects, visit their website at amigosdelodemarcos.org. The site also features an interesting history of the pueblo, written by Jim Heinrich.
Lo de Marcos, like much of Mexico, experienced dramatic political and economic shifts throughout the 20th century that profoundly altered the lifestyle of its residents. According to historian Jesús de Avila, local resident Victorino Salazar Mariscal, now 84 years old, shared that the town’s founders were brothers Oliverio and Pedro Palomera and their three sons, who arrived in the region known as Lo de Marcos in 1918. At that time, only a handful of families lived there. When the Palomeras settled, Lo de Marcos was part of the vast holdings of the Camarena family from Guadalajara. The landowners could never have imagined the changes that would occur over the next half-century in this tranquil outpost.
In the early 1900s, the original settlers of Lo de Marcos had to travel to La Peñita to obtain essential supplies like corn and beans. Back then, pigs were fed ripe coconuts and then slaughtered for lard, which was used to cook or fry all foodstuffs, particularly tortillas and beans. The abundant seafood, including fish, clams, oysters, shrimp, and lobster, played a crucial role in the diet of the inhabitants. Crocodile hunting provided additional income for those working on the hacienda’s crops.
For about 30 years, the main agricultural activity in Lo de Marcos was the production of coconut oil and the harvesting of tropical fruits as part of the large Camarena hacienda. Don Victorino recalls: “Coconuts were gathered and peeled. The landlords hired overseers called ‘orillero,’ who coordinated dozens of workers that gathered and peeled coconuts until they had a large amount. Each day’s harvest was then covered with palm fronds. In December, coconut crushing started with the help of many people who came from other places. This cycle ended in early May, and then all of the outside workers returned to their towns, leaving Lo de Marcos quiet once again.”
By 1936, Lo de Marcos became an ejido—a form of community land ownership in Mexico where owners can work the land but cannot sell it. During the ejido period, a Compostela investor, Fernando Flores, purchased the coconut oil and provided employment to village residents, particularly during the rainy season. Oysters and limpets were plentiful until the mid-1950s, and they are still harvested seasonally as a regional Nayarit delicacy.
Ángela Cruz Rodríguez, a lifelong resident of Lo de Marcos who is now 71 years old, recalls the simple agricultural life of the village. As a child, she collected river shrimp and various shellfish: “Back then you fished to eat, not to sell,” she said. Ángela fondly remembers the excitement in 1950 when the route of the “Tropical” taxi began operating. This primitive vehicle without doors or windows, with wooden benches and a canvas top to shield passengers from the sun, was a significant development for the villagers, offering affordable transportation to outlying towns.
By the 1960s, when a popular movie filmed in Puerto Vallarta drew international attention to western Mexico’s coastline, the local economy began to shift towards tourism. With a population of several hundred people and just two streets, Lo de Marcos slowly began to evolve. In the 1970s, the construction of bungalows, small restaurants, and a trailer park provided the village with its first tourist accommodations. Today, Lo de Marcos boasts seven RV parks along the southern edge of the beach, welcoming seasonal visitors from around the world.
A visit to the relaxed, historic village of Lo de Marcos offers travelers an opportunity to practice their Spanish while exploring quaint tiendas (small stores) and family-owned restaurants or strolling along the quiet streets. The essence of Lo de Marcos lies in its gentle embrace of Mexican culture and its stunning natural beauty—a place where one can truly unwind.
Getting There and Safety Precautions
How to Get There: Lo de Marcos is easily accessible via Highway 200, which runs along the coast of Nayarit. The village is approximately a 60-minute drive north of Puerto Vallarta, making it an ideal destination for a day trip or a longer stay. If you’re coming from Puerto Vallarta, head north on Highway 200 and follow the signs to Lo de Marcos. The road is well-maintained and offers scenic views of the Pacific Ocean and lush tropical landscapes.
For those relying on public transportation, buses regularly run between Puerto Vallarta and Lo de Marcos. The ride offers a budget-friendly option and an opportunity to experience the local culture. Once you arrive in Lo de Marcos, taxis are available for getting around the village and to nearby attractions.
Safety Precautions: While Lo de Marcos is generally safe for tourists, it’s important to take the following precautions:
- Daylight Travel: If you’re driving to Lo de Marcos, it’s advisable to travel during daylight hours. The roads are safer, and you can fully enjoy the scenic beauty of the route.
- Secure Valuables: As with any travel destination, keep your valuables secure and out of sight. Use hotel safes when available, and avoid leaving belongings unattended on the beach.
- Stay Informed: Check local news and weather reports before your trip. The rainy season, typically from June to October, can lead to occasional road closures or delays.
- Respect Local Customs: Lo de Marcos is a traditional village with a close-knit community. Be respectful of local customs and traditions, and always ask for permission before taking photos of people.
- Health Precautions: While Lo de Marcos has basic medical facilities, more comprehensive care is available in nearby larger towns. Make sure you have travel insurance that covers medical expenses and know the location of the nearest clinic or hospital
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