A band plays lively music inside the Jesús Malverde Shrine, adding to the vibrant and eclectic atmosphere. The shrine is not only a place of prayer but also a gathering spot for community celebrations and traditions.
By Bill and Dorothy Bell
Our past travels took us to Culiacán, the vibrant capital of the state of Sinaloa, Mexico. Known for its rich cultural heritage and historical significance, Culiacán is a city that blends modernity with deep-rooted traditions. However, what intrigued us the most was the story of Jesús Malverde, an enigmatic figure often regarded as the “saint of the narcos” and a local Robin Hood.
Arrival in Culiacán
When we arrived in Culiacán, we were greeted by a bustling city with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The city’s blend of colonial architecture and modern buildings creates a unique skyline, while its vibrant streets pulse with the rhythm of daily life. With an average annual temperature of around 27°C (80.6°F), the weather was warm and inviting, perfect for exploring the city’s many attractions.
Culiacán, also known as the “Palace of Snakes” or the city of “Those who adore the crooked God Coltzin,” is the capital and largest city in the state of Sinaloa. Located inland in the middle of the state, it sits in the valley where the Tamazula and Humaya rivers meet to form the Culiacán River. The city is the center of the agriculture business on the west coast of Mexico and one of the most important breadbaskets for the country. However, Culiacán is also known as the birthplace of the Sinaloa Cartel, and its economy has been significantly influenced by underground activities related to illegal drugs.
The Legend of Jesús Malverde
Jesús Malverde, often referred to as the “generous bandit” or the “angel of the poor,” is a legendary figure in Culiacán. According to local lore, Malverde was an outlaw and bandit who lived around the early 20th century. He is said to have stolen from the rich and given to the poor, earning him the admiration and loyalty of many.
Malverde met a tragic end around 1910 and was buried by the railroad tracks in Culiacán. His bones were later moved to a shrine that has become a pilgrimage site for many, especially those involved in activities outside the law, such as drug trafficking and illegal immigration. Despite the dubious nature of some of his devotees, Malverde is also seen as a protector and benefactor by those who believe in his legend.
Visiting the Jesús Malverde Shrine
Our visit to the Jesús Malverde Shrine was an experience unlike any other. Located in the heart of Culiacán, the shrine stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of this controversial figure. As we approached, we felt a mix of curiosity and apprehension, unsure of what to expect or how we would be received.
The altar at the Jesús Malverde Shrine is filled with flowers, candles, and statues, creating a focal point for prayer and reflection. Devotees leave offerings and notes of thanks, seeking the blessings and protection of Malverde.
The shrine itself is modest yet vibrant, adorned with colorful flowers, candles, and offerings from devotees. Photos and plaques thanking Malverde for his blessings lined the walls, each telling a story of hope, desperation, and gratitude. The air was thick with the scent of burning candles and the sound of whispered prayers.
We were welcomed with open arms by the caretakers of the shrine, who shared stories of Malverde’s miracles and the unwavering faith of his followers. It was clear that, regardless of his outlaw status, Malverde’s legacy as a protector of the downtrodden remains strong.
Exploring Culiacán
The majestic Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary, a key landmark and spiritual center in Culiacán.
Beyond the shrine, Culiacán offers a wealth of attractions and experiences for travelers. Here are some highlights:
- Culiacán Botanical Garden: A beautiful oasis in the city, the botanical garden showcases a stunning variety of plant species and provides a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle.
- Regional History Museum: Located in a charming colonial building in Parque Constitución, this museum offers fascinating insights into the history and culture of Sinaloa, including exhibits on the indigenous peoples and colonial era.
- Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary: This impressive cathedral, with its striking neoclassical architecture, is a must-visit for its spiritual significance and architectural beauty.
- Centro de Ciencias de Sinaloa: An interesting science museum that has on display the 5th largest meteorite in the world.
- Ernesto Millán Escalante Park: Features pools, attractions, an artificial lake, gardens, sports courts, a long water slide, and an open-air theatre.
- Constitución Civic Center: Home to the Culiacán Library, the Culiacán Zoo, dancing fountains, sports courts, and running paths.
- Las Riveras Park: Offers pedal boats, a zip line across the river, and bike paths.
The stunning statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe at the Jesús Malverde Shrine in Culiacán, adorned with flowers and colorful lights, serves as a beacon of hope and faith for the local community.
Shopping
Culiacán is known for its large and modern shopping centers, offering a variety of options for visitors looking to indulge in some retail therapy.
Safety Precautions
While Culiacán has much to offer, it is also known for its association with drug cartels and related violence. The U.S. State Department and other agencies have issued warnings about travel to this area. Here are some safety precautions to consider:
- Stay Informed: Check the latest travel advisories from your government and local authorities before planning your trip.
- Stay in Safe Areas: Stick to well-known and populated areas, especially at night. Avoid venturing into unfamiliar neighborhoods.
- Travel in Groups: Whenever possible, travel with a group or with a trusted local guide.
- Be Discreet: Avoid displaying expensive jewelry, electronics, or large amounts of cash.
- Emergency Contacts: Have a list of emergency contacts, including local police, your country’s embassy or consulate, and your hotel.
- Local Advice: Seek advice from hotel staff or local contacts about safe areas to visit and areas to avoid.
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Steps to the Shrine
Visitors walk up the steps leading to the Jesús Malverde Shrine, illustrating the devotion and pilgrimage to this unique cultural site.
Travel Information
Getting There:
- By Air: Bachigualato International Airport, also known as Culiacán International Airport, offers domestic and international flights. It is the eleventh most important airport in the country by the number of passengers.
- By Bus: Numerous bus lines, including ADO and TAP, provide comfortable and reliable service to Culiacán from various cities in Mexico.
- By Car: Culiacán is well-connected by highways, making it accessible by car from other parts of Mexico. Highway 15 is the main route connecting the city to major destinations like Mazatlán and Hermosillo.
Accommodations: Culiacán offers a range of accommodations to suit all budgets, from luxury hotels to budget-friendly hostels. Some popular options include:
- Hotel Lucerna Culiacán: A luxurious hotel offering excellent amenities and service.
- Hotel San Marcos: A comfortable mid-range hotel located in the city center.
- Hostal del Parque: A budget-friendly option with a friendly atmosphere and convenient location.
Conclusion
Our journey to Culiacán and the Jesús Malverde Shrine was an eye-opening experience that offered a glimpse into the complex tapestry of history, culture, and belief that defines this fascinating city. Whether you’re drawn by the legend of Malverde or the vibrant energy of Culiacán, this destination promises an unforgettable adventure. Just remember to stay informed and take necessary precautions to ensure a safe and enjoyable visit.
