Calakmul, Campeche

Calakmul: Mayan Ruins Deep in the Jungles of Campeche

Photography by Bill Bell

Calakmul, also known as Kalakmul, is a remarkable Maya archaeological site located in the Mexican state of Campeche, deep within the dense jungles of the greater Petén Basin region. Situated just 35 kilometers (22 miles) from the Guatemalan border, Calakmul stands as one of the largest and most powerful ancient cities ever uncovered in the Maya lowlands.

Historical Significance

Calakmul was a major Maya power in the northern Petén region of the Yucatán in southern Mexico. It administered a vast domain, evidenced by the extensive distribution of its emblem glyph, the snake head sign, read as “Kaan.” This emblem signified the seat of what is known as the Kingdom of the Snake or Snake Kingdom, which reigned during most of the Classic period. Calakmul itself is estimated to have had a population of 50,000 people, exerting governance over areas as far as 150 kilometers away.

The site boasts 6,750 ancient structures, with the most prominent being the great pyramid, Structure 2, which stands over 45 meters (148 feet) high, making it one of the tallest Maya pyramids. This pyramid, like many others in Mesoamerica, grew in size by building upon existing temples. The central monumental architecture spans approximately 2 square kilometers (0.77 square miles), while the entire site, largely covered with dense residential structures, is about 20 square kilometers (7.7 square miles).

Throughout the Classic Period, Calakmul maintained an intense rivalry with the major city of Tikal to the south. The political maneuvers of these two cities have been likened to a struggle between two Maya superpowers.

How to Get There

By Car

Driving to Calakmul offers a scenic and adventurous journey through the heart of Campeche. The site is accessible via a network of well-maintained roads:

1. From Campeche City: Head southeast on Highway 180 towards Champotón. Continue on Highway 261 until you reach the junction with Highway 186.
2. From Chetumal: Drive west on Highway 186. Look for signs indicating the turnoff for Calakmul, which is about 100 kilometers west of the town of Xpujil.
3. Final Stretch: From the turnoff on Highway 186, a 60-kilometer drive on a paved road through the biosphere reserve will lead you to the archaeological site.
4. 

Public Transportation

While driving is the most convenient way to reach Calakmul, public transportation options are also available. Buses run from Campeche, Chetumal, and other major towns to Xpujil. From Xpujil, you can hire a taxi or join a tour group to reach the site.

Weather

Calakmul experiences a tropical climate, with warm and humid conditions year-round. The best time to visit is during the dry season, from November to April, when temperatures are more comfortable, and the likelihood of rain is lower. The wet season, from May to October, brings heavy rainfall and higher humidity, which can make exploration more challenging.

Safety Precautions

• Travel in Groups: Safer to explore in groups or with an organized tour.
• Hire a Local Guide: Knowledgeable guides help navigate the jungle and provide insights.
• Stay on Marked Paths: Avoid getting lost and encountering dangerous wildlife.
• Keep Valuables Secure: Avoid displaying expensive items to prevent petty theft.
• Stay Hydrated: Carry and drink plenty of water.
• First Aid Kit: Carry basic first aid supplies.
• Weather Awareness: Check forecasts and prepare for heavy rains if visiting during the wet season.
• Emergency Contacts: Have a list of emergency contacts, including local authorities and your tour guide’s information.

Conclusion

Calakmul offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the grandeur of the ancient Maya civilization. Whether you are captivated by the towering pyramids, the rich history of the Snake Kingdom, or the serene beauty of the jungle, Calakmul promises an unforgettable adventure.