Known as the Coca Cola Church

Photography by Bill Bell

San Juan Chamula, located just 10 km (6.2 miles) from San Cristóbal de las Casas in the Mexican state of Chiapas, is a village known for its strong aversion to photographers.

For years, photography was strictly forbidden, and visitors were often warned not to take photos under any circumstance. However, times have changed. While photography is still not generally permitted, special permits are now sold, allowing tourists to take photographs of the market and local parades.

San Juan Chamula is a municipality and township with a population of around 76,941 as of the 2010 census. The vast majority of its residents are indigenous, primarily of the Tzotzil ethnic group, and nearly all speak an indigenous language—99.5% of the population aged 3 and older, according to the 2010 census. This deep connection to indigenous culture is evident in everyday life, and the town is a living testament to the preservation of ancestral traditions.

One of the most interesting aspects of life in Chamula is its unique relationship with Coca-Cola. The village has the highest per capita consumption of Coke in the world, a curious fact given that it is often cheaper than drinking water.

However, the reasons for this extraordinary consumption go beyond economics. Coca-Cola is deeply intertwined with the community’s religious practices. Chamula’s spiritual life blends Catholicism with ancient indigenous beliefs, and Coca-Cola has become an offering in their ceremonies. Locals drink Coke not just for enjoyment, but as a ritual act; the burping from the carbonation is believed to expel evil spirits.

The church in Chamula, often referred to as the “Coca-Cola Church,” is a fascinating and somewhat unsettling place. Visitors are warned not to take photographs inside, with old tales circulating about tourists who ignored this warning and faced severe consequences—though the truth of such stories is uncertain.

Inside, the church is starkly different from typical Catholic places of worship. There are no pews; instead, the floor is covered with pine branches, and worshippers kneel or lay on the ground as they engage in prayer. The air is thick with incense, and the scent of pine fills the space.

The church also holds sacrificial chickens, with their necks wrung and bodies stretched out in front of worshippers. Candles are abundant, their flickering light casting a solemn glow on the scene. Some local officials even use putty knives to scrape wax from the floor, which is then collected and recycled. One of the most striking features is the altar, where Saint John the Baptist occupies the highest position—a rare sight, as this spot is typically reserved for Jesus in Catholic tradition.

Despite the occasional curious tourist, the locals remain focused on their religious and cultural practices. They are proud of their heritage and march in solemn procession down the main road to the church before and after services, a visible display of their devotion to both their faith and their traditions.