Catemaco, Veracruz

A Cool Bewitching Destination: Lake Catemaco

By Dorothy Bell – Photos by Bill Bell

Sitting in the Square – Portrait of a Town

It is hard to determine what is myth, magic, or pure hype in Catemaco. It doesn’t matter, I tell myself as we sit in the main square. It is Mexico. Catemaco. Anything can take place here.

This is the home of alternative medicine, shamans, and strange occurrences. Home of Monkey Island and the set for Sean Connery’s “Medicine Man”. It is also the birthplace of life for the ancient Olmecs; their Garden of Eden. In the beginning…..

Lake Catemaco is located in southern Mexico’s state of Veracruz where the Sierra Santa Marta and the Tuxtla highlands meet. It is a large body of water – 7 miles (11 km) long and 4 miles (6.4 km) wide – formed by several extinct volcanoes. It is an ancient crater lake that boasts deep rainforest vegetation, excellent birding, and a number of unique arrays of tourist attractions. Monkeys. Witches. Wizards. Ancient civilizations.

In the square, we rest in the shadow of the majestic El Carmen Church and watch as Mexican town life unfolds in front of our eyes. This is typical Mexico where the church sits on the plaza as if at the head of the table, with the municipal palace proudly at her side; Church and State. Children play with balloons and eat cotton candy. There are two clowns, a man and a woman, with large feet and painted smiles that blow balloons for passersby. They laugh and play with babies and mothers. Vendors sell candy, refrescos (drinks), and snacks. It is a carnival atmosphere and this scene in the center of town repeats itself daily.

It is the end of the day and we are exhausted from touring the area. There is music playing down the street along the northern flank of the square. It comes closer and we see the marching of a school band that we have heard practicing for days. Songs and dances approach us as we sit on one of the many benches in the square – incognito as a family of gringos can be – laying low and eating paletas. This is a real parade made up for the amusement of those dancing and singing or wiggling their parts and chanting school songs and victory. The band stops on the side of the square and performs for a moment or two before it proceeds to another part of this town.

Within an hour another public march heads towards the square. This time a funeral procession passes. Flowers and more flowers, carried in the arms of almost every mourner and those paying respects for a friend or neighbor. Big bouquets and tall arrangements of carnations, lilies, and roses. The procession is somber and for a few brief moments, the carnival atmosphere in the square is on hold. A frozen few moments, where mothers hold their children away from the marching procession, lovers stop kissing and teasing and old men look away or down at the ground. Frozen moments respecting life and the inevitability of death. Respect.

The somber procession makes its way into the bosom of the church; the center and heart of town life and slowly the action in the square resumes; Kids laughing, lovers squirming and squeezing, families with nothing better to do than come and watch everyone else. “Don’t they have TV?” asks my daughter.

We walk back to the RV site slowly, taking the long route to our home. Catemaco is known for its brujas and brujos – witches and wizards that can cast a spell on your enemies, cure you of your ills or get your straying husband back. The town boasts the largest witches’ convention on the first Friday in March – the Annual Bruja Convention -“Noche de Brujas” There are healers, fortunetellers, and magic potions.

Locals say the area’s reputation for strange and mystic relationships is over 2000 years old and stems from the Olmecs who inhabited the area – the most ancient of Mexico’s civilizations, predating even the Mayans and Aztecs. They claim in Catemaco, that the beginning was here at the lake. The ancient Olmec’s Paradise Lost and the beginning of all creation.

We walk past fortune tellers and stores with shingles and signs advertising various occult services. Cast a spell on your enemy. Cure your ills. Buy your magic supplies. Magic. We dare each other to go in. Maybe we should get our palms read or order a spell or potion or two. We laugh that uncomfortable laugh; that utter when you half believe or maybe half fear. “No you go in…..NO YOU…”

Bill tells me I should go in “and write about it.” There is a pregnant pause. “I’m too tired” I say, and change the subject. He laughs.

Stalls are selling T-shirts proclaiming Catemaco Tierra de los Brujos/ or “Land of the Witches.” Devout Catholicism mixes easily with ancient beliefs here in Mexico. Roadside vendors sell religious articles side by side with magic trinkets. Buy a shell rosary, picture of Our Lady or buy good luck, curse an enemy, or make yourself irresistible to the opposite sex with a “special” amulet. Only 30 pesos.

We walk by the Hotel de los Brujos (Hotel of the Witches) and the Restaurant de Siete Brujos (Restaurant of the Seven Witches). It is getting dark as we pass the empty lanchas that are occupied during the day at this busy lakeside attraction, taking tourists to Monkey Island. “Go to the Island my friends. Monkey Island. Come here. Best deal here lady.”

It is silent now as we walk back to the RV in the evening with the moonlight shining in wavering streams across the lake. Birds chatter and gossip about us as we pass through the now empty street.

Name:

Catemaco derives its name from the indigenous language of the region, Nahuatl. The name “Catemaco” comes from the Nahuatl words “ca” (meaning “place”), “tetl” (meaning “stone” or “rock”), and “maco” (meaning “burned”). Therefore, Catemaco can be roughly translated to mean “Place of the Burned Stone.” This name likely refers to the area’s volcanic activity and the presence of basaltic rocks and other volcanic formations in the region.

Location:

The town in the Mexican state of Veracruz is situated on the shore of Lake Catemaco, which is known for its scenic beauty and cultural significance.

Weather:

Weather Today in Catemaco

January Average Highs

July Average Highs

Population: Approximately 50,000 people

Elevation: 340 meters

Founded:

The town itself was officially founded in 1774. It became part of the province of Santiago Tuxtla, which was established as a municipality after Mexico’s independence.

Medical: Doctors, dentists

Money: ATMs

History:

Pre-Hispanic Period

• Olmec Influence: The region around Catemaco was initially inhabited by the Olmecs, one of the earliest and most influential civilizations in Mesoamerica. The Olmecs left a significant cultural legacy in the area.
• Nahuatl Name: The name “Catemaco” derives from the Nahuatl language, traditionally interpreted as “Place of the Burned Stone.” However, another possible interpretation is “place where boats are loaded”.

Colonial Period

• Spanish Conquest: During the early colonial period, the Spanish arrived and began to influence the region. The local population was converted to Christianity, and indigenous religious practices were suppressed or blended with Catholic rituals.

19th and 20th Centuries

• Growth and Development: Catemaco grew steadily throughout the 19th century. In 1881, it was officially designated a town, and in 1966, it achieved city status. The town’s location on Lake Catemaco and its natural beauty have made it a popular destination for both local and international tourists.
• Tradition of Sorcery: Catemaco is particularly famous for its tradition of witchcraft and sorcery, which blends pre-Hispanic beliefs with Catholic rituals. This tradition has become a significant cultural and tourist attraction, especially the annual National Congress of Sorcerers of Catemaco, established in the 1970s.

Today:

• Tourism and Economy: Today, Catemaco is a vibrant town known for its scenic lake, remnants of the rainforest, and its unique cultural heritage. The town’s economy heavily relies on tourism, driven by its natural attractions and its reputation as a center for mystical and healing practices.

Catemaco’s history reflects a blend of indigenous heritage and colonial influences, evolving into a unique cultural hub that continues to attract visitors interested in its natural beauty and mystical traditions.

Getting There:

Getting to Catemaco involves traveling to the state of Veracruz, Mexico, and then making your way to this scenic town situated near Lake Catemaco. Here are the common routes and transportation methods:

By Air:

• Nearest Airport: The closest major airport to Catemaco is Minatitlán/Coatzacoalcos National Airport (MTT), located about 150 kilometers southeast of Catemaco. This airport serves domestic flights from Mexico City and other major cities in Mexico.
• Alternate Airports: Veracruz International Airport (General Heriberto Jara International Airport, VER) is another option, approximately 220 kilometers north of Catemaco.

By Bus:

• From Veracruz: You can take a direct bus from the central bus station in Veracruz City (CAVE) to Catemaco. The bus journey typically takes around 4 to 5 hours.
• From Mexico City: There are buses from Mexico City’s TAPO bus terminal to Catemaco, although the journey is longer, taking approximately 9 to 10 hours.

By Car:

• Driving from Veracruz City: The drive from Veracruz City to Catemaco takes about 3 to 4 hours. You would take Highway 180 (also known as the Trans-Isthmic Highway) southward, which offers a scenic route along the coast and through lush landscapes.
• Driving from Mexico City: The drive from Mexico City to Catemaco is longer, approximately 8 to 10 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. The route generally follows Highways 150D and 180D.

By Taxi or Shuttle:

• Private Transport: For convenience, especially if traveling in a group, you can hire a private taxi or shuttle service from either of the nearby airports or major cities. This option, while more expensive, offers direct and comfortable transportation to Catemaco.

Local Transportation in Catemaco:

• Taxis and Local Buses: Once in Catemaco, you can use local taxis or buses to get around the town and visit nearby attractions such as the Nanciyaga Ecological Reserve, waterfalls, and the islands on Lake Catemaco.

Tips for Travelers:

• Check Bus Schedules: It’s advisable to check bus schedules in advance, as frequency and availability can vary.
• Weather Considerations: The region can be humid and rainy, especially in the summer months, so plan your trip accordingly and be prepared for tropical weather conditions.
• Safety: Ensure your travel plans include reputable transportation options, and always check for the latest travel advisories.

For more detailed information on transportation options, schedules, and travel tips, you can refer to local travel guides and official tourism websites of Veracruz and Catemaco.

Side Trips and Other Enchanting Things to Do

Bird Watching: 560 species of birds in the area including parrots, toucans, trogons, woodcreepers, tropical raptors, and flycatchers. Hundreds of herons nest on the tiny Isla de la Garzas (Island of the Herons) in April and May.

Lanchas to Monkey Island: On the bank of Lake Catemaco you can hire lanchas or boats to one or more of the nearby islands. Monkey Island is named after the non-native red-cheeked Changos, monkeys brought here by the University of Veracruz from Thailand used for study. Many tourists take bananas or coconuts but are discouraged by University feeding crew.

Salto de Eyipantla: Take a whole day to discover the thunderous waterfalls of Salto de Eyipantla. Just 8 kilometers (just over 5 miles) from Lake Catemaco, the area makes an interesting afternoon. Tourist shops selling typical trinkets are sold both in the parking lot and at the base of the falls. Children and tour guides offer services as you descend the 246 steps down to the base, from gum, candy to tours and lunches. Definitely NOT wheelchair accessible.

The falls are quite spectacular with an approximate 50 meter (150 foot) thunderous cascade down to the small pool of water at the bottom. Water sprays your body as you gingerly walk towards the water along the stone path. A gale force of mist soaks your face.

A few restaurants sell lunch with regular Mexican fare.

Santiago Tuxtla & Tres Zapotes: A Day for Archaeology Buffs!

It is a pleasant trip just 20 minutes north of Lake Catemaco on Highway 180. Founded by Cortés in 1520, the small town of Santiago Tuxtla is nestled in a small valley with a little river running through the center of town. It is a pleasant place with an interesting plaza, church, and museum. In the center of the square is a gigantic Olmec head sculpture – an amazing relic placed in the open with only a roof overhead for environmental protection.

The museum flanks one of the sides of the square and is a must-see for those interested in ancient civilizations. Here you can see another colossal Olmec head.

The town of Tres Zapotes is just 30 minutes down the road. While famous for Stelea C – proving the discovery of “O” as a mathematical concept by any civilization – the ruins and attached museum are disappointing to all but archaeology purists. The heads and other significant archaeological findings have been transported to Jalapa and Mexico City. On display, for the most part, are plastic replicas of the heads and altars on an adjoining cornfield.

Note about The Olmec (“Mouth of the Jaguar” or the “Rubber People”): Believed to be the oldest Indian group in the Mesoamericas, the Olmecs inhabited this area in the Preclassic era (1200 BC to 100 BC). They worked in the basalt quarries in the area and created their weighty masterpieces for artistic, religious, and mathematical purposes. These items, 10 foot (3.5 meter) heads, thrones, altars, and stelae, some well over 20 tons, were then “magically” transported to their religious center La Venta near Villahermosa Tabasco. Seventeen heads have been discovered in the region.