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Returning to Cozumel 20 years ago, this time via a cruise ship, offered a new perspective on the island. While the cruise experience was enjoyable, we found that staying on land provided a deeper connection to Cozumel's charm and beauty. © Bill Bell
Returning to Cozumel 20 years ago, this time via a cruise ship, offered a new perspective on the island. While the cruise experience was enjoyable, we found that staying on land provided a deeper connection to Cozumel’s charm and beauty. © Bill Bell

Rediscovering Cozumel: A Journey Through Time

by Bill Bell

Cozumel has transformed significantly since my first visit in the 1970s with my eldest son Sean (now deceased) and his cousin Francesca. It was during that trip that I first experienced the power of the Caribbean sun, suffering burns from a missed spot with sun protection. Despite these early misadventures, my love for Cozumel has endured.

Then and Now: The Evolution of Cozumel

In the past, Cozumel boasted a laid-back, tranquil atmosphere, renowned for its exceptional fishing, snorkeling, and diving. Unlike its flashier neighbor, Cancún, located just 40 miles (65 kilometers) to the north, Cozumel offered a serene escape with a distinctly low-key vibe.

Today, Cozumel retains much of its unique charm and remains an excellent choice for those who prefer a more authentic experience over planned resorts. However, the island has evolved from the sleepy backwater it once was. The snorkeling, diving, and fishing are still top-notch, but the island is no longer an undiscovered paradise.

The Impact of Cruise Ships

One significant change is the influx of cruise ships. Cozumel is the most popular cruise stop in Mexico, hosting up to 33 ships in a single week. When multiple ships dock, the island’s restaurants, bars, and shops bustle with day-trippers, bringing a vibrant but crowde

One of the many luxury hotels on the island, the InterContinental Presidente Cozumel Resort & Spa offers stunning ocean views, premium amenities, and easy access to the island's renowned coral reefs, providing an unforgettable experience for travelers seeking both relaxation and adventure.
One of the many luxury hotels on the island, the InterContinental Presidente Cozumel Resort & Spa offers stunning ocean views, premium amenities, and easy access to the island’s renowned coral reefs, providing an unforgettable experience for travelers seeking both relaxation and adventure.

Exploring Cozumel Today

Despite the changes, Cozumel remains a haven for those interested in exploring its stunning coral reefs through scuba diving and snorkeling. Home to the largest reef in the Americas, the island offers unparalleled underwater adventures. The only town, San Miguel, has managed to retain much of its pleasant, small-town feel, providing a charming base for visitors.

Beyond Cozumel: Day Trips to Mayan Ruins

For those with enough time, the Mayan ruins of Tulum and Chichen Itza on the Yucatan mainland are within easy reach for a day trip. These historical sites offer a fascinating glimpse into the region’s rich cultural heritage and are well worth the visit.

Getting to Cozumel

By Air: The most convenient way to reach Cozumel is by flying directly into Cozumel International Airport (CZM). Several major airlines offer direct flights from key cities in the United States, Canada, and other parts of Mexico. From the airport, it’s a short taxi ride to your accommodation in San Miguel or other parts of the island.

By Ferry: If you’re coming from Cancún or Playa del Carmen, you can take a ferry to Cozumel. First, fly into Cancún International Airport (CUN). From there, take a bus or taxi to Playa del Carmen, about a 45-minute drive. Ferries to Cozumel depart regularly from Playa del Carmen and take approximately 45 minutes to reach the island.

By Cruise: Cozumel is a popular stop on many Caribbean cruise itineraries. Cruise ships dock at one of the island’s three piers: Punta Langosta, International Pier, or Puerta Maya. From the pier, you can easily access taxis or rental cars to explore the island.

Conclusion

Cozumel may have changed since my first visit decades ago, but its enduring appeal lies in its ability to blend the old with the new. Whether you’re a seasoned diver, a history enthusiast, or simply seeking a relaxing getaway, Cozumel continues to offer something special for every traveler. Embrace the evolution and discover the many layers of this beautiful Caribbean island.