Exotic Coastal Cuisine: Delectable Octopus
Tara A. Spears
“Mexican food is an aphrodisiac which excites the passion for living. It courts, seduces, ravishes, then cherishes all five senses.” – Richard Condon
Put this on the top of your to do bucket list: sample octopus. Along coastal Mexico, fresh seafood is a trademark and the local chefs create amazing entrees. Octopus can be prepared by blanching it in boiling water and then baking it, as well as boiling, grilling, or poaching. Because octopus evolves in taste depending on what ingredients are used when cooking, many prefer to eat it raw.
Local master chef, Jesus Glez said, “Octopus has a unique flavor but can be complemented with many types of marinades and salsas, it is very versatile.” His restaurant in La Colonia (north La Penita), Expresso89, features several tasty dishes featuring octopus: “We have fried octopus in tacos, or sautéed for chilaquiles, and included in our seafood burritos.” The majority of area restaurants include octopus in their shrimp cocktail and use it in beer cocktails.
There are around 300 species of octopus worldwide and, while they are technically mollusks like clams and oysters, they have the ability to control their movement. Like squid and cuttlefish, they are cephalopods, meaning their “arms” are seemingly attached directly to their heads. Octopuses have three hearts, eight arms and nine brains. A mouth like a parrot’s beak. No skeletal structure. And the amazing ability to change not only their size, color and patterns, but their texture as well to blend in, almost invisibly, with their surroundings.
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redators often swim right past them completely unaware the octopus is inches away. If it is discovered, it can eject a large cloud of ink, like a smoke screen, to obscure the attacker’s vision and swim away. Octopus are very fast swimmers, expelling water through their siphon, kind of “jet propelling” themselves through the water, and being boneless, they can squish themselves into the smallest crevice. If all else fails and it is actually grabbed by a predator, it can lose an arm or two if it has to, and regenerate them later with no permanent damage. Fascinating animals!
Many people wonder, what does it taste like? Octopus in not muscus-y like raw osters because the meat is very white with a nice, firm texture. If prepared correctly, it is not tough or chewy, but actually quite tender. To me, they taste kind of “scallopy” and “crabby” at the same time, and can be served in cold dishes as well as hot preparations.
Another star chef, Julio Parra of Julio’s Steakhouse in La Penita, says “octopus is very delicious and can be prepared in different ways such as ceviches, salads, aguachile, toasts, cocktails, garlic mojo, diablo, cucaracha, sarandeado. I personally prepare it in our restaurant using fines herbs.” He went on to explain that it is better to freeze octopus rather than using fresh caught because freezing kills possible harmful bacteria and makes the meat more tender. Julio shared one of his popular recipes, “Pulpo a la cucaracha” that is picante and flavorful but you should let him make it for you!
Thank you to chefs Jesus and Julio for sharing their tips for cooking octopus. “The most used technique is to “scare” the octopus (immerse it in boiling water for 5 seconds and remove it, repeat three times) and then let it cook until soft” said Jesus. “Add herbs, vegetables and spices to the water to give it more aroma and flavor.”
Typical seasonings that are used when preparing octopus: clove, garlic, chili, bay leaf, onion, citrus fruits, celery, etc.) Sometimes chefs add a touch of wine to make it softer. An interesting belief is to add wine bottle corks or copper coins, although it is more out of tradition than science. Once cooked, the octopus can be breaded, sautéed or coated to fry as well as it can be marinated prior to being grilled or roasted in a pan with butter. The following photos are Jesus preparing octopus and a couple of his entrees.
Octopus are not only great to eat but they have some real health benefits. They are a good source of manganese, which aids in the metabolism of cholesterol and carbohydrates, vitamin B12, riboflavin, calcium, iron, potassium, and they are an essential source of amino acids which help build protein and reduce the risk of cancer. Maybe best of all, they are low in fat, low in calories, and are a lean source of protein, ideal if you’re following a Whole 30, Paleo or Keto diet. Lately, octopus has gained in popularity NOTB as well as throughout interior Mexico in fine dining, high-class restaurants.
You can experience excellent octopus dishes at these two restaurants in La Penita: Expresso89 on the highway or downtown -Julio’s
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