Sandra Tesolin in the town of Angangueo, Mexico,
Where Mexico City and Explora Monarch Tour (Teotihuacan, Sierra Chincua and El Rosario monarch butterfly sanctuaries, Angangueo, Valle de Bravo, Toluca)
When late February/early March
Trip rating 4.5/5
I was dreaming of going to visit the monarch butterfly sanctuaries in Mexico for many years. It finally happened in 2024. I was intrigued by the fact that a super generation from Canada and the U.S. could fly all the way to their overwintering grounds in the Sierra Madre mountains. We purposely chose the end of February and early March for our trip as there was a possibility of more butterfly action in the forest. My butterfly friend Carol highly recommended a small-group tour with Explora Latin America. They did not disappoint.
I learned a few things along the way:
Explore Mexico City before the butterfly tour
My husband and I spent a few days in Mexico City before the actual tour began. I highly recommend this as there’s so much to experience in this fascinating city.
It also helps you to get acclimatized to the altitude. We explored the area around the immense Zocalo (main square), Bellas Artes, Diego Rivera murals and the National Museum of Anthropology. Pre-purchasing tickets online for the Frida Kahlo Museum is highly recommended. The neighbourhoods of Coyoacan, Roma and Condesa are worth a visit.
Be prepared for hot and cool weather
We lucked out with beautiful weather, but be prepared to dress in layers, wear a hat and have a water bottle in your day pack. Lots of walking on this trip, so comfortable shoes are a must.
We met our fellow monarch enthusiasts (13 of us) at an evening get together organized by Explora owners/guides Sid and Chris. From that moment on, we knew we were in good hands. Sid and Chris had taken many people to the butterfly sanctuaries over the years.
The next day, we met our dedicated van driver, who expertly got us out of the big city. Our first tour stop was the majestic archeological site of Teotihuacan. I had seen historical Indigenous architecture before, but never like this. At one end was the giant Pyramid of the Sun, and at the other end of a long trail was the Pyramid of the Moon. This UNESCO World Heritage site is believed to pre-date Mayan and Aztec cultures.
Afterwards, we had a pleasant stop visiting a local family for some pulque (traditional agave drink), homemade snacks and obsidian art.Sierra Chincua was the first and smaller of the two butterfly sanctuaries we visited. It gave us an initial taste of the incredible monarch overwintering habitat in the Oyamel fir forest. Oyamel reminds me of our balsam fir.
Pace yourself on the climb up
With a slow and steady pace, we reached 10,000 feet at the biggest sanctuary, El Rosario. The hike up took about an hour and a half. Along the way, we encountered a diversity of other monarch lovers and were blessed with hummingbirds flitting to and fro and a few butterflies nectaring on flowers. For those who prefer not to walk all the way up, horses are available for rent ($10 U.S.) to get you partway.
Once there, I was in awe of the thousands of butterflies draped like leaves on the Oyamel tree branches and trunks. This was my dream coming true. We also witnessed quite a bit of butterfly mating on the ground, in the air and even on my husband’s backpack.Near the sanctuaries was the colourful town of Angangueo, which has a whole block of murals devoted to the monarch butterfly. There’s even a depiction of the Urquharts, the Canadian couple who studied the monarchs for many years and helped find the overwintering sites in 1975.All the overnight stays that Explora had chosen for us were charming.
The rustic Rancho Cumbre Monarca had a communal table for all of us to gather and share our collective experiences and eat delicious homemade food. The resident sheep and ducks entertained us with their antics.
The Hotel Meson de Leyendas in Valle de Bravo had unique artistry, delicious food and a much-welcomed surprise after all the walking we did: hot tubs.On our way back to Mexico City, we stopped in Toluca to visit the beautiful Cosmovitral stained-glass conservatory with over 500 plants. Depictions of day and night, birds, sky and water were breathtaking. This is considered the world’s largest non-religious stained-glass installation.
Travel can bring surprises
Upon our arrival back in Mexico City, we encountered an unexpected event. It was the kick-off to the Mexican presidential campaign, with thousands in the streets, banners flying everywhere. Quite an overwhelming experience, but we did not feel unsafe. Our van had to let us off a few blocks from our hotel. Sid and Chris took good care of us while we manoeuvred through the crowds. Interestingly enough, the most popular banners were for the woman who is now Mexico’s new president.
We had a fittingly fond farewell dinner and memories to last a lifetime.
