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Becán, Campeche

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A grand stepped pyramid showcasing the impressive architecture of the ancient Maya, partially framed by surrounding trees.

Journey to Becán: Exploring the Hidden City of the Yucatan Peninsula

The journey to the ancient city of Becán begins with an exhilarating drive through the heart of the Yucatan Peninsula, a region steeped in history and natural beauty. This less-frequented Mayan archaeological site beckons travelers with promises of rich history and serene landscapes.

The Road to Becán

From Campeche, travelers take Highway 180 south to Champotón before veering onto Highway 261 toward Escárcega. As the road transitions onto Highway 186 toward Chetumal, the excitement builds. The sun peeks through the lush canopy of trees lining the road, casting dappled shadows on the pavement. It’s a scenic drive, taking approximately three and a half hours, with well-marked signs guiding the way.

At KM 146, a sign marks the left turn toward Becán, guiding vehicles through a series of turns—a left, a right, and another left—each one inching closer to the destination. The route passes through the picturesque Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, a tropical forest teeming with vibrant flora and fauna, from majestic jaguars to playful toucans.

The circular altar, constructed from stone blocks, was likely a central feature for ceremonies in the East Plaza, dated around 1200 CE.

Arrival at Becán

As travelers arrive at Becán, a sense of tranquility envelops them. The site is quiet, devoid of the throngs of tourists typically found at more popular destinations like Chichén Itzá. This solitude adds an air of mystery to the exploration. Becán’s entrance welcomes visitors with a small parking area, restrooms, and a modest ticket booth. A watchman greets guests with a smile, charging a nominal fee and providing a map to guide them through the site.

Discovering Becán’s Rich History

Named by archaeologists Karl Ruppert and John Denison in 1934, Becán means “Ravine Formed by Water” in Yucatec Maya, a nod to the unique moat surrounding the ancient city. Towering pyramids rise above the forest canopy, a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the ancient Maya civilization.

The city’s moat, the only one of its kind in the Mayan world, sparks the imagination. Was it a defensive fortification, as some historians suggest, or a symbolic divide between the elite and commoners? The moat, five meters deep and sixteen meters wide, snakes around the ceremonial center, its design echoing the sinuous path of a serpent—hence its alternate name, “The Way of the Serpent.”

Becán was a significant political and military hub, strategically located on trade routes linking Campeche to Chetumal and further connecting the northern Chenes communities with Tikal and the Petén region. The ancient city’s role in history extended far beyond its limestone walls, influencing trade and politics in the region.

Exploring Becán’s Architectural Marvels

Becán boasts over 680 structures, with only a fraction fully explored or restored. The Río Bec architectural style, characterized by thick walls, high twin towers, and false stairways, is immediately recognizable. The city’s labyrinth of dead-end passageways and tunnels is designed to confuse potential invaders.

East Plaza

The first stop is the East Plaza, home to Structures I, II, III, and IV, along with the intriguing Circular Altar. Structure 1, with its 15-meter twin towers, invites exploration. Ancient astronomers once used the vaulted chambers to study the stars, interpreting celestial movements that guided Mayan life.

Structure 2, a grand pyramid, stands 43 meters square and 14 meters high. Despite needing repairs, it exudes a sense of majesty. The decorative façade, adorned with high and bas-reliefs, speaks of a bygone era when elite residents lived within its chambers.

Structure 3 is a long mound measuring 52 meters in length and 4.5 meters high, with an attached platform for performances and events. Its many rooms and steam bath hint at its multifaceted use in the past.

 

Becan Mask

HISTORICAL NOTES

You can see Becán’s pyramids above the forest canopy from a fair distance.

Becán is a one of the Major Archeological site (of at least 45) that graces the base of the Yucatan Peninsula. It is by and

Structure 4 quickly becomes a favorite to climb. Its steep central staircase leads to a breathtaking view of the surrounding jungle, revealing the expansive beauty of the Yucatan Peninsula.

Central Plaza

The Central Plaza, where Structures 8, 9, and 10 loom large, is the next destination. These massive edifices, likely used for ceremonial purposes, command attention. Structure 8, with its broad staircase and twin towers, is accessible through a Mayan Arch, connecting it to the East Plaza.

Structure 9, the tallest building at the site, rises 32 meters high. Atop the pyramid, a temple offers panoramic views across the jungle canopy, stretching as far as Calakmul. The awe-inspiring vistas highlight the city’s historical significance.

Structure 10, an elaborate two-level complex, showcases 12 chambers adorned with traces of original red and blue pigments. The temple, with its striking mask of Itzamná, the Creator God, beckons further exploration. The intricacy of the details, preserved under protective glass, reveals the artistry of the ancient Maya.

The Ball Court

Becán’s well-preserved ball court, with its two parallel buildings and 9-meter-wide courtyard, invites visitors to imagine the ancient games played here. Though no stone rings or disks were found, the atmosphere is palpable, echoing the sounds of past competitions that once reverberated through the city.

Journey Through Time

A visit to Becán is an unforgettable journey through time. The site’s historical significance, coupled with its breathtaking architecture and serene setting, leaves an indelible mark on visitors.

Recommendations for Travelers

For those embarking on this adventure, wearing comfortable shoes and bringing plenty of water and insect repellent is recommended. The dense jungle can be challenging to navigate, so staying on designated paths is wise. Plan for at least two to three hours to fully immerse in the site’s wonders. There’s no food or drink available on site, so packing snacks is a good idea.

Conclusion

Becán remains a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the Maya. The journey back through the lush landscapes is filled with stories and mysteries of this ancient city, a reminder of the enduring legacy of those who came before. Whether explored alone or with fellow adventurers, Becán promises a journey that will linger in memory long after leaving its sacred grounds.

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