Palenque: The Ancient City
You never forget your first visit to Palenque—or your second. Exploring the majestic pyramids emerging from the dense Chiapas jungle is a profound experience. Visitors speak in hushed tones, reverently absorbing the ancient structures. With cameras in hand, they capture memories before pausing to marvel at the extraordinary civilization that once flourished here.
Unlike most archaeological sites, Palenque nestles in the lush rainforest at the base of the Sierra Madre Mountains. The encroaching jungle, with its thick vines and immense leaves, hints at how nature could reclaim this ancient city. It feels as though the forest is waiting to envelop these secrets once more.
When to Visit
The best time to visit is early in the morning, when the air is cooler, and the light casts a warm glow, perfect for photography. The humidity in Chiapas can be intense, especially in the rainy season (May to October), so prepare for sudden downpours and muddy paths. Mornings offer fewer crowds, creating a serene, almost sacred atmosphere, allowing your imagination to wander through the social and political life of this vibrant Mayan center that thrived between 600 and 800 AD.
Safety Tips
While Palenque is generally safe for tourists, it’s wise to take precautions:
- Stay hydrated: The humidity can be high, so bring plenty of water.
- Wear insect repellent: Mosquitoes are common, especially during the rainy season.
- Secure your belongings: Keep valuables close, as pickpocketing can occur.
- Stay on marked paths: Avoid venturing into dense jungle areas alone.
Arriving at Palenque
Arriving at Palenque, you take a taxi or drive up the mountain to the old entrance, where vendors offer brochures, sunscreen, and other essentials. After paying a modest entry fee, you enter through the turnstile, anticipation building as you follow the stone path shaded by towering trees. The sounds of waking birds and rustling leaves accompany you, adding to the enchantment.
The Temples and Tombs
The ruins of Palenque unfold before you—a breathtaking scene of ancient pyramids framed by verdant jungle. The site’s name, meaning “Stone Buildings” in an ancient dialect, reflects the grandeur of these structures, built not only as fortresses but also as sacred spaces.
Temple of the Skull: This temple is named after the skull relief at its base, which depicts a defleshed rabbit, a symbol of the city. It’s one of the first structures you encounter and shares a platform with the Temple of the Red Queen. At the base, a vault was found with human bones and a collection of 700 jade jewelry pieces, reflecting the Mayan elite’s wealth and connections.
Temple 13: Home to the tomb of the “Red Queen,” discovered within an interior chamber and distinguished by her cinnabar-covered remains. Archaeologists continue to study her lineage, adding to the site’s mystique.
Temple of the Inscriptions: Dominating the scene, this temple houses the tomb of King Pakal, ruler of Palenque from 614 to 683 AD. The intricate hieroglyphs here offer insights into Mayan history, documenting battles, alliances, and royal lineages.
The Palace
Across from the Temple of the Inscriptions lies The Palace, a labyrinthine structure built over 400 years. Its distinct tower, resembling more of an Asian pagoda than Mayan architecture, serves as an observatory for celestial events. Exploring the palace’s courtyards, corridors, and steam baths, you can sense the grandeur of King Pakal’s residence.
The Temple of the Skull
Also known as Temple XII and the Temple of the Dead Moon, the Temple of the Skull is typically the first structure you see as you follow the path from the ticket booth. Positioned at the far right, it appears as one of four distinct structures, but on closer inspection, you can see the prominent Temple of the Inscriptions.
The Temple of the Red Queen and the Temple of the Skull share a long rectangular platform, creating the illusion of additional structures. Both temples were built in the 8th century atop earlier buildings from a hundred years prior. The typical Palenque pyramid features a large staircase leading to rooms at the top, and archaeologists believe this temple was a sanctuary once vibrantly painted in red and blue.
The Temple of the Skull derives its name from a stucco relief on a pillar, depicting a defleshed rabbit, often interpreted as a symbol of the city. At the base, a vault was discovered containing human bones and a remarkable collection of 700 pieces of jade jewelry. Jade, sourced only from the Motagua River in Guatemala, was exclusively worn by the Mayan elite.
A Journey of Discovery
Each visit to Palenque reveals new wonders. Over 500 structures stretch across ten square miles, though only 34 have been excavated. Every hidden mound and ruin holds untold stories of the Mayan civilization, making each visit feel like a personal pilgrimage, a journey through time.
Getting There
Palenque is accessible from Villahermosa, Campeche, or Cancun, with first-class buses providing comfortable travel. The site, just 6.5 kilometers from the town of Palenque, is open daily, and the adjacent museum offers a deeper dive into the region’s history.
Where to Stay
There are several hotels both near the site and in the town of Palenque, catering to a range of preferences and budgets. For those seeking adventure, camping is popular in the area, with spots like Maya Bell offering rustic charm, where evenings come alive with music and the distant calls of howler monkeys.
Conclusion
Palenque is more than just an archaeological site; it’s a journey into the heart of the Mayan world, a place of wonder and reverence. Every visit enriches the soul, leaving you eager to return, to delve deeper into the mysteries of this extraordinary ancient city.
