There’s a stretch of Baja California coastline where, every winter, a few thousand gray whales show up to do exactly what their ancestors have done for generations: mate, give birth, and nurse their calves in water calm and warm enough to give a newborn whale a fighting chance before the long swim north to Alaska.
It’s called Scammon’s Lagoon by English speakers and Laguna Ojo de Liebre by Mexicans, and it sits on the Pacific side of the peninsula near the town of Guerrero Negro — roughly 8 to 11 hours’ drive south of the border, depending on where you cross.
The name itself is a bit of an uncomfortable history lesson. Charles Melville Scammon was an American whaling captain who found the lagoon in 1857, and within a few short years he and the other whalers who followed him had hunted the gray whale population here to the edge of extinction. It’s a strange thing, watching whales in a place named after the man who very nearly wiped them out. But the whales came back, the lagoon became a protected biosphere reserve, and today it’s one of the best places on Earth to watch gray whales up close, in the water they were once hunted in.
Thousands of Whales, a Few Feet Away
From January through March, thousands of gray whales migrate into the lagoon. At the peak of the season there can be as many as 1,000 whales here at once. Visitors go out in small boats called pangas — open skiffs that hold 8 to 12 passengers — and it doesn’t take long before you understand why people fly and drive a very long way to do this.
Some of the whales here are known as “friendlies.” Nobody’s entirely sure why, but certain whales — often mothers with calves — will approach a panga on their own, sometimes close enough for someone to reach out and touch them, or for a whale to lift its head almost close enough to kiss. It’s not staged, and it’s not guaranteed, but it happens often enough that it’s become part of the lagoon’s reputation.
And then there’s the breaching. Whale after whale hurling itself out of the water, reaching for the sky, and sinking slowly back into the lagoon — over and over, all around the boat. It’s the kind of thing photographs never quite do justice to, which is why we put together a short video from some of Dorothy’s photos rather than just describing it.
Getting There, and Getting on the Water
Scammon’s Lagoon is an easy add-on to a Baja road trip. Guerrero Negro sits right on Highway 1, so if you’re already driving the peninsula, you’re not going far out of your way. Boat trips run out of town, and most hotels in the area can arrange a spot for you — no advance booking from home required, though showing up during peak season without a plan is asking for a disappointing morning.
If you’re driving down from the US or Canada, remember that Mexican law requires Mexican auto insurance — your home policy won’t cover you south of the border, no matter what your provider tells you. We’ve spent more than three decades driving every state in Mexico, and getting proper coverage sorted before you leave is one of those small pieces of preparation that saves you a world of trouble later. We put together what we’ve learned about Mexican auto and RV insurance for US and Canadian vehicles if you want the details before you go.
The Video
Produced by Bill and Dorothy Bell, photography by Dorothy Bell:
Whale watching seasons vary a little year to year, but January through March is the reliable window. If you’ve been to Scammon’s Lagoon yourself, or you’re planning a trip, we’d love to hear about it in the comments.
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